Chile Guide
Santiago
Set on a wide plain near the foot of the Andes, Santiago boasts one of the most dazzling backdrops of any capital city in the world. The views onto the towering cordillera after a rainstorm clears the air are magnificent, especially in winter, when the snow-covered peaks rise behind the city like a giant white rampart against the blue sky. Unfortunately, such vistas are few and far between, as these same mountains prevent winds from shifting the air trapped over the plain, leaving it thickly polluted with diesel fumes and dust. As a result, Santiago is frequently covered by a dense blanket of smog through which the Andes can be only dimly perceived – a smudged, tantalizing shadow of their real selves. The worst months for smog are between May and July.
The city itself is a great, sprawling metropolis of five million people – a third of the population of Chile. It's divided into 32 autonomous comunas, most of them squat, flat suburbs stretching from the centre ever further out. The historic centre of Santiago, in contrast, is compact and manageable, and, while not exactly beautiful, has a pleasant, enjoyable atmosphere. Part of its appeal comes from the fact that it's so green: tall, luxuriant trees fill the main square and line the riverbank, and there are many meticulously landscaped parks. Above all, though, it's the all-pervading sense of energy that makes the place so alluring, with crowds of Santiaguinos constantly milling through narrow streets packed with shoe-shiners, fruit barrows, news kiosks and sellers of everything from coat hangers to pirated CDs.
Highlights
1 Plaza de Arma Gaze at the colonial architecture surrounding Santiago's lively central plaza – or sit on a park bench and just take in the hustle and bustle.
2 Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino This compact but exquisite collection of artefacts from dozens of pre-Hispanic civilizations features fine tapestries, intricate ceramics and dazzling gold jewels.
3 Mercado Central At lunchtime the city's busy marketplace is an excellent place to sample fresh fish or seafood.
4 Cerro San Cristóbal Ride the elevator to the top of this steep hill where, on a clear day, you can see the snow-capped Andes towering over the city.
5 Cajón de Maipo Blessed with sunny skies most of the year, this canyon southeast of Santiago is a prime location for Andean camping and hiking, plus you can go on multi-day horse treks that snake into Argentina and back.
6 Andean skiing Skiers and snowboarders will delight in the four world-class ski areas near Santiago; for day-trips the slopes just east of the city are great while longer stays are best spent at the world-famous Portillo resort.
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