Bolivia Guide
La Paz
Few cities in the world have a setting as spectacular as LA PAZ. Situated over 3500m above sea level, the city cowers in a narrow canyon gouged from the high Altiplano, the cluster of church spires and office blocks at its centre dwarfed by the magnificent icebound peak of Mount Illimani, which rises imperiously to the southeast. On either side, the steep slopes of the valley are covered by the ramshackle homes of the city's poorer inhabitants, which cling precariously to even the harshest gradients.
With a population of just over a million, La Paz is the political and commercial hub of Bolivia and the capital in all but name (technically, that honour belongs to Sucre). But it manages to retain the feel of a provincial city, protected from the tides of globalization by its isolation and unique cultural make-up. Founded as a centre of Spanish power in the Andes, La Paz has always had a dual identity, with two very distinct societies, the indigenous and the European, coexisting in the same geographical space. Hi-tech international banks and government offices rub shoulders with vibrant street markets selling all manner of ritual paraphernalia for appeasing the spirits and mountain gods that still play a central role in the lives of the indigenous Aymara who make up the majority of the city's population, and that of the Altiplano in general. For them, life in the city they still refer to by the old indigenous name of Chuquiago Marka is conducted largely on the streets, and at times the whole place can feel like one massive, sprawling market. The exigencies of the high altitude make the pace of life quite slow, but there's an underlying bustle: everyone seems to be in a hurry, even though no one moves very fast.
Highlights
1 Plaza San Francisco. This lively square is the unofficial city centre for La Paz's indigenous communities, and also home to the city's most beautiful colonial church.
2 Calle Sagárnaga La Paz's "gringo alley" is the best place to buy weavings and other handicrafts from all over Bolivia.
3 Mercado de Hechicería This most colourful and fascinating of La Paz's innumerable street markets sells all manner of Aymara ritual paraphernalia and herbal cures.
4 Peñas La Paz's many folk-music venues offer the chance to enjoy traditional Andean music and dance in a reasonably authentic setting.
5 Tiwanaku Just an hour away from La Paz, the ancient ruined city of Tiwanaku is one of the most monumental and intriguing archeological sites in South America.
6 Chacaltaya The world's highest ski resort offers spectacular views over the Cordillera Real.
Tour operators
1 America Tours Ground-floor office 9, Edificio Avenida, Av 16 de Julio 1490 
02/2374204 
02/2310023 
www.america-ecotours.com Efficient and reliable travel agency: they're the main booking agent for Chalalán Ecolodge, in Parque Nacional Madidi, and are a good place to book internal flights, as well as trips to the Pampas del Yacuma and the Salar de Uyuni if you want the limited security of booking in advance.
2 Andean Summits Aranzaes 2974, Sopocachi 02/2422106 or 71944722 02/2413273 www.andeansummits.com Highly professional adventure-tour operator with an excellent reputation that runs mountaineering and trekking expeditions throughout Bolivia, led by experienced English-speaking guides. They also rent and sell outdoor equipment.
3 Bolivian Journeys Sagárnaga 363 02/2357848 or 71539803 02/2357848 www.bolivianjourneys.org Award-winning specialist mountaineering agency feted by the climbing press and given glowing grades by the Bolivian Tourism Ministry. Their moderately priced expeditions in the Cordillera Real and elsewhere boast a high guide to client ratio, take the routes less travelled and use high-spec equipment – they claim to be the only company in La Paz to use 4-season tents.
4 Crillon Tours Av Camacho 1223 02/2337533 02/ www.titicaca.com Luxury tour agency running hydrofoil cruises on Lago Titicaca. They also own both the exclusive Inca Utama Hotel and Spa in Huatajata on the lake shore and their own Andean Roots Eco-Village (home to a maritime museum run by the Limachi brothers, the reed-boat builders employed by explorer Thor Heyerdahl), as well as the Hostal Posada de los Incas on the Isla del Sol. Be warned that their website boasts a frightful El Condor Pasa rendition.
5 Downhill Madness Mountain Biking Sagárnaga 339 02/2391810 or 2431252 Veteran mountain-biking agency with a fairly impressive safety record (as in no deaths), and a comprehensive package which includes full-face helmet, buffet lunch and hot showers at the end of your ride. The bikes are hand-made, and groups are organized via ability. They also offer a no-quibble cancellation policy should you have to back out for whatever reason.
6 Fremen Galería Comercial Local No.13, Edificio Handal, Av Mariscal Santa Cruz
02/2407995 or 2408200 02/2408269 www.andes-amazonia.com La Paz branch of the excellent and highly respected Bolivia-wide agency offering a wide range of excellent tailor-made tours throughout Bolivia, including river trips on the Río Mamoré on their own luxury floating hotel, the Reina de Enín.
7 Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking Ground-floor office 9, Edificio Avenida, Av 16 de Julio 1490 02/2313849 www.gravitybolivia.com The original and best downhill mountain-bike operator, offering daily trips to Coroico or the Zongo Valley with excellent US-made bikes and experienced and enthusiastic English-speaking guides. They also organize more extreme mountain-bike adventures for experienced riders, are a good source of free tourist advice and have a book exchange. They share the same office as America Tours in La Paz.
8 Huayna Potosí Travel Agency Illampu 626 02/2317324 02/2456717 www.huayna.com Friendly and experienced agency run by the inimitable – and highly qualified (both medically and climbing-wise) – Dr Hugo Berrios. In addition to organizing climbing and trekking expeditions in the region, he manages the Refugio Huayna Potosí mountain lodge at the foot of Mount Huayna Potosí, and also offers ice-climbing courses at beginner, intermediate and advanced level.
9 Magri Turismo Capitán Ravelo 2101 02/2442727 02/2443060 www.magri-amexpress.com.bo Highly respected and long-established upmarket agency running the full range of tours throughout Bolivia, from La Paz city tours to trekking in the Andes and excursions in the Amazon rainforest. They also operate their own eco-lodge (La Estancia) on the Isla del Sol.
10 Topas Adventure Travel Bolivia Illampu 707 02/22111082 or 71264089 www.topas.bo New, embassy-assisted project uniting Danish overland specialist Topas and veteran Bolivian guides Freddy Céspedes and Juan Carlos Cardenas (formerly operating as the well-organized and moderately priced Akhamani Trek). As well as a two-week overland expedition in their specially adapted vehicle (the first in Bolivia), knowledgeable and enthusiastic English-speaking guides specialize in the Cordillera Apolobamba and the Choro, Takesi and Yunga Cruz trails. They also offer city tours and excursions to Tiwanaku, Chacaltaya, Lago Titicaca, Salar de Uyuni and the Amazon.
11 Transturin Alfredo Ascarrunz 2518, Sopocachi 02/2422222 02/2411922 www.transturin.com Long-established upmarket operator offering luxury catamaran cruises on Lago Titicaca, including a visit to their exclusive Inti Watana cultural complex on the Isla del Sol. Their Mercedes Benz tour buses are equally luxurious, offering some of the most comfortable road travel in the country.
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