Argentina Guide
The Northwest
Parque Nacional Calilegua
Spread over 760 square kilometres, just south of the Tropic of Capricorn, in a province better known for its arid mountains, multicoloured valleys and parched altiplanic landscapes, the PARQUE NACIONAL CALILEGUA sticks up above rich fertile land that is home to some of the country's biggest sugar farms. It's the setting for amusing anecdotes in Gerald Durrell's book The Whispering Land; his tales of roads cut off by flooding rivers can still ring true but his quest for native animals to take back to his private zoo cannot be imitated – the park's rich flora and fauna are now strictly protected by law.
The park entrance (daily 9am–6pm; free) is at Aguas Negras, 120km from Jujuy city via RN-34. At Libertador General San Martín take RP-83, which climbs to Valle Colorado, and is paved as far as Aguas Negras. Libertador General San Martín is an uninviting little town, dominated by the huge Ledesma industrial complex – the world's biggest sugar refinery – and usually referred to as Libertador or LGSM on signs, but is a possible stopover base for visiting the park. Cars can make it along the main road, punctuated by numerous viewpoints, some offering splendid panoramas, as far as the Mesada de la Colmenas, near the other rangers' headquarters, but a 4WD will be required beyond here – the road continues its climb to the highest point, at 1700m, marked by the Abra de las Cañas monolith. You should certainly walk off the beaten track, well away from noisy trucks, if you want to have the slightest chance of spotting any of the wildlife. Trekking around Calilegua takes time and it's a very good idea to spend a night or two in the park. Morning and late afternoon are the best times to see animals and birds by streams and rivers. Seven trails of varying length and difficulty have been hacked through the dense vegetation, and it's worth asking the rangers for guidance – there aren't any maps.