Argentina Guide
The Northwest
Fiambalá
Aptly meaning "deep in the mountains" in the native Kakano language, FIAMBALÁ, 50km north of Tinogasta, is near the olive groves of the fertile Abaucán Valley, an area reminiscent of North Africa or the Middle East. It's a quiet oasis town of crumbling adobe houses, set among extensive vineyards, whose fruit is eaten fresh, dried as raisins or fermented into very drinkable wine. Some of the locals are excellent artisans, specializing in weaving, and you can buy their work at various workshops around the village, including a crafts market just off the main square. A fabulous new state-of-the-art winery, Finca Don Diego, open for tastings in its superb cool cellar (Mon– Fri 9am–1pm & 3–6.30pm; 
www.fincadondiego.com.ar , produces some of the region's most promising wines.
The town's other claim to fame is as a spa, and the thermal baths (daily 9am–10pm; $2) are perched in a beautiful mountain setting 15km to the east, at an altitude of over 2000m. The mineral spring gushes out at over 70°C but, by the time the water trickles down into the cascade of attractive stone pools, it cools to 30°C or so, very pleasant when the outdoor temperatures plummet well below freezing; in fact the baths are especially fun to relax in at night, when you can look up at the stars, wallow in the warm waters and listen to the campers singing fireside songs. You can camp by the pools, and there are spartan shared cabañas (Price: $30-45) to rent; the only way to get here is by taxi ($35 return fare, including waiting time). Some 200m downhill is a hostería ( 
03837/496095; Price: $30-45) with an outdoor pool and decent rooms.
Buses from Catamarca and Tinogasta, or to Chile, use the stop on Plaza Mayor. Some tourist information can be obtained at the municipalidad, 100m to the west (daily 9am–12.30pm & 5–9pm; 03837/496250), including for places to stay (private houses), such as the recommended Doña Pocha at Islas Malvinas s/n ( 03837/496137; Price: $30-45); otherwise you can always overnight at the clean but extremely basic Hosteria Municipal, right next door at Diego de Almagro s/n ( 03837/496291; Price: $30-45), whose rooms have their own bath; you're advised to book ahead. Excellent pizzas and other Italian-style food are on offer at the friendly Pizzeria Roma, calles Abaucán and Padre Arch, a couple of blocks north of the main square, should you want a change from the snacks and basic fare served at the hostería. You'd be far better off, however, staying in Tinogasta.