Argentina Guide
The Northwest
Belén
The main settlement in the altiplano of Catamarca Province, BELÉN, is squeezed between the Sierra de Belén and the river of the same name. Olive groves and plantations of capsicum – paprika-producing peppers (pimentones) – stretch across the fertile valley to the south. A convenient stopover, Belén offers the area's best accommodation and a couple of restaurants, and it's also a base for adventure tourism, including trekking and horse riding. And since Belén promotes itself as the Capital del Poncho you might like to visit the many excellent teleras, or textile workshops, dotted around the town; they also turn out beautiful blankets and sweaters made of llama, vicuña and sheep's wool, mostly in natural colours.
The best place tostay in the whole region is relative newcomer 
Hotel Belén ( 
03835/461501, 
www.belencat.com.ar ; Price: $45-75), part of a large complex that includes a convention centre and a games room-cum-cybercafé at Belgrano and Cubas – rooms are divided into Sullka (small) and Suma (large), but both are decorated in pristine white, with dark wood furnishings and amusing ethnic bathrooms, with lots of stone and ceramic tiling; there is also a clean hostel-style dorm ($10 per person without breakfast, $13 with breakfast). Hotel Samai, Urquiza 349, one block east and south of the main square ( 03835/461320, www.samaihotel.com.ar ; Price: $45-75) is clean, and warm in winter (fans cool it enough in the summer), but certainly not luxurious. In the unlikely event that it's full, you can try the very basic Hotel Gómez, Calchaquí 213 ( 03835/461388; Price: $30-45). Most of the restaurants cluster around the main square. A classic favourite is Parrillada El Único, housed in a rustic hut at Sarmiento and General Roca, one block north of the church. It serves excellent empanadas and does a great locro. However, it is now outdone by the fabulous 1900, Belgrano 390, a couple of blocks away towards the Hotel Belén); smart waiters serve up lovingly prepared lunches and dinners in a cheery brightly coloured decor – try the huge bife de chorizo with cheese and a potato tortilla plus the earthy house wine.