Argentina Guide
The Litoral and the Gran Chaco
San Ignacio Miní
Opening time: Daily 7am–7.30pm or sunset if earlier
Telephone: 03752/470186
The most famous of all the reducciones, San Ignacio Miní was originally founded in 1610 in the Guayrá region, in what is now Brazil. After the bandeirantes attacked the mission in 1631, the Jesuits moved thousands of miles southwards through the jungle, stopping several times en route at various temporary settlements before finally re-establishing the reducción at its present site in 1696.
The ruins occupy six blocks at the northeastern end of the village of San Ignacio: from the bus stop head east along Avenida Sarmiento for two blocks and turn left onto Rivadavia. Follow Rivadavia, which skirts around the ruins, for six blocks and then turn right onto Alberdi, where you'll find the entrance to the site. At the entrance, there's an excellent Centro de Interpretación Regional with a series of themed rooms depicting various aspects of Guaraní and mission life, plus a detailed maquette of the entire reducción. A separate smaller museum contains many pieces garnered from the ruins, including bits of walls, ceramic vessels and mortars.
Upon entering the settlement itself, you'll come first to rows of simple viviendas, or living quarters, a series of six to ten adjoining one-roomed structures, each of which housed a Guaraní family. Passing between the viviendas, you arrive at the spacious Plaza de Armas, whose emerald grass provides a stunning contrast with the rich red hues of the sandstone. At the southern end of the plaza, and dominating the entire site, stands the magni-ficent facade of San Ignacio's church, designed by the Italian architect Brazanelli. The roof and much of the interior have long since crumbled away, but two large chunks of wall on either side of the entrance remain, rising out of the ruins like two great Baroque wings. Though somewhat eroded, many fine details can still be made out: two columns flank either side of the doorway and much of the walls' surface is covered with decorative bas-relief sculpture executed by Guaraní craftsmen.
To the left of the main entrance, you can wander around the cloisters and priests' quarters, where a number of other fine doorways and carvings remain.