Argentina Guide
The Litoral and the Gran Chaco
Esquina
Strategically wedged in the angle formed by the Corrientes and Paraná rivers – hence its name, "corner" in Spanish – Esquina's main claim to fame is that football hero Diego Maradona's family originated from here – the municipality even began proceedings against the ailing sportsman in 2007 for not paying local taxes. However, most people visit this sleepy market town to try and catch huge river fish such as boga, surubí and dorado. Plaza 25 de Mayo, the town's hub, has retained its colonial feel – locals laze on warm days in the shade of its many plane trees, lapachos and magnolias.
The best places to stay are the nearby estancias. 
Estancia La Rosita ( 
011/4804-0416, 
www.estancialarosita.com.ar ; Price: $210-300 full board), lies some way from the river among huge pastures, which are dotted with ever-changing lakes and marshes, and is very much a working estancia, with lots of cattle and horses – galloping is a definite option. The house is an agreeable low-rise farmstead, with shady galleries and a noble dining room, while the guest rooms are simple and homely. Alicia Cometta de Landgraf runs the place with her sons, who are avid polo players – take a look at the impressive pitch even if you never get to see or participate in a game. An Australian tank swimming pool and barbecue facilities are added attractions; the food is authentic criollo.
Estancia Buena Vista ( 011/4342-6290, www.estanciabuenavista.com.ar ; Price: $210-300 full board), several kilometres north of Esquina off the road to Corrientes, is another traditional working estancia, with large numbers of cattle and sheep but specializing in game, which can be sampled in the fine menus on offer. Run by a Swiss Argentine, Sara Röhner, and her German-born husband, Klaus Liebig, the estancia combines a high level of comfort with old-fashioned correntino hospitality. The German-style teas are memorable.
Local alternatives include: Posada Casablanca at Quinta IV Bis ( 03777/460967, www.posadacasablanca.com.ar ; Price: $75-90), a smart white building with several rooms, of two categories, many of which have fabulous river views; and Posada Hambaré ( 03777/460270, www.posadahambare.com.ar ;Price: $300-450 full board) with some very classy rooms in the original thatched house, plus very decently appointed, all en-suite rooms, in the modern extension. Both are at the northern edge of the town and cater very much to fishers and dove hunters. La Casona de Cotota ( 03777/460169, www.lacasonadecatota.com.ar ; Price: $75-90), the historic family home of Sara Röhner, the owner of Estancia Buena Vista, now run as a charming B&B by her son Klausi is in the centre of town, at Bartolomé Mitre 691, and has a fine dining room, five comfortable rooms and fishing trips on offer.