Argentina Guide
The Atlantic resorts and the Pampas
Mercedes
Tranquil and cultured MERCEDES, 30km southwest of Luján along RN-5, was founded in 1752 as a fortress to protect that city from Indian attacks. It's a well-preserved provincial town and easy to find your way around – the main drag is Avenida 29, which crosses central Plaza San Martín.
Aside from just wandering around the town itself, Mercedes' main draw is its pulpería, twenty or so blocks north of Plaza San Martín, at the end of Avenida 29. Pulperías, essentially provisions stores with a bar attached, performed an important social role in rural Argentina and enjoy an almost mythical status in gaucho folklore. The sign outside 
Mercedes'pulpería, known locally as "lo de Cacho" (Cacho's place), claims it to be the last pulpería, run by the last pulpero – quite possibly a justifiable claim. The gloomy interior, which has hardly changed since it opened its doors in 1850, harbours a collection of dusty bottles, handwritten notices – included an original wanted poster for the biggest gaucho outlaw of them all, Juan Moreira – and gaucho paraphernalia. It's best visited in the evening for a beer and a picada featuring some of the renowned local salami, when you may also catch some impromptu singing and guitar playing.
Accommodation is not plentiful, and what exists is rather lacking in character. The Gran Hotel Mercedes, on the corner of Avenida 29 and Calle 16 ( 
02324/425987; Price: $90-150), looks stern and unpromising from the outside, but inside the rooms are quite comfortable and have a/c and TV, while facilities include a restaurant and bar area. Otherwise, try the Hostal del Sol, on the edge of town at avenidas 2 and 3 ( 02324/433400; Price: $90-150), which has large, smart rooms.
Eating and drinking options in the centre include La Vieja Esquina, a charming traditional bar on the corner of calles 25 and 28, which also sells delicatessen produce. Mercedes is the national capital of salami and even hosts a salami festival in September. You should certainly try some while you are here – the picado grueso is favoured by locals, although its high fat content might be off-putting. Of the confiterías around the plaza, good for coffee, sandwiches and snacks, one of the nicest is La Recova, the only building in the square to retain an old-fashioned arcade.