Argentina Guide
Patagonia
"Why then, and this is not only my particular case, does this barren land possess my mind? I find it hard to explain…but it might partly be because it enhances the horizons of imagination."Charles Darwin
A land of adventures and adventurers, of myths and fabulous reality, Patagonia's geographical immensity is paralleled only by the size of its reputation. As a region of contrasts and extremes, it has few equals in the world: from the biting winds that howl off the Hielo Continental Sur (Southern Patagonian Icecap) to the comforting hearthside warmth of unforgettable, old-time Patagonian hospitality; from the lowest point on the South American continent, the Gran Bajo de San Julián, to the savage peaks of the Fitz Roy massif; from the sterile plains of the coastline to the astoundingly rich marine breeding grounds that abut them, among which Península Valdés is the crowned king. Linking them all are hundreds of kilometres of desert steppe, seemingly an infinity of space.
Patagonia's tourist infrastructure has expanded considerably over the past decade, but it is still primitive in many areas: if planning to visit the lesser-known sites, you'll need reserves of patience and flexibility, both in terms of time and style of travel. High season runs from December to the end of February – it's vital to book accommodation and tours for these months well in advance. November is a pleasant time to visit, although the winds that scour Patagonia are at their most unremitting, while the period from March to Easter can be one of the most rewarding in which to travel: most tourist services are still open, but you'll avoid the crowds, and the Patagonian forests along the Andean spine assume their autumnal colours. Low season runs from Easter to around the end of October, when temperatures can plummet to –25°C, and many mountain roads become impassable.
Highlights
1 Whale-watching in Puerto Piramides Getting a glimpse of southern right whales off Península Valdés ranks as one of the most memorable nature experiences on the planet.
2 Welsh tea in Gaiman Don't miss afternoon tea and cakes in one of Argentina's Welsh villages.
3 Petrified forests Phenomenally preserved fossilized trunks scatter the lunar landscapes of the Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados.
4 Cueva de las Manos Pintadas Ancient rock art dramatically sited in the heart of a scenic canyon.
5 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares World-class trekking in the northern sector and huge, calving glaciers – including legendary Glaciar Perito Moreno – in the south.