Argentina Guide
Neuquén and the Lake District
Trevelin
The most Welsh of the cordillera towns, TREVELIN is a small, easy-going settlement that retains a pioneering feel, with several low brick buildings characteristic of that era. Lying 24km south of Esquel, it has beautiful views across the grassy valley to the peaks in the south of Parque Nacional Los Alerces. The town was founded by Welsh settlers from the Chubut Valley following a series of expeditions to this region that began in 1885 with a group led by Colonel Fontana of the Argentine army and John Evans. Its Welsh name means "village of the mill", and the vital flour mill, a stalwart brick structure dating from 1918, now forms the main museum in town, the Museo Regional Molino Andes or El Viejo Molino (daily 10am–9pm; $4).
Although cabins are springing up on the outskirts there's not a lot of accommodation in town. Among the best is snug Hostal Casaverde ( 
02945/480091, 
www.casaverdehostel.com.ar ; Price: $45-75), HI-affiliated and with laundry and kitchen facilities and a privileged view from its little hilltop up Los Alerces; it's off Avenida Fontana, five to ten minutes' walk from the plaza. Ruca Ñancú, John Daniel Evans and San Martín ( 02945/480427; Price: $75-90), is family-run, clean and spacious. Owner Alec Byrne is also a tour operator. Hotel Estefania, Perito Moreno s/n next to Nain Maggie ( 02945/480148; Price: $45-75; closed Sept & Oct), has inexpensive rooms for up to five and also serves meals. Oregón, on San Martín eight blocks south of the plaza ( 02945/480408, www.oregon.alojar.com.ar ; Price: $90-150), has good cabañas with a kitchen in an orchard. For those with tents, Camping El Chacay ( 02945/15681827; $10 per person) near the south end of San Martín – turn left one block beyond Oregón restaurant (see above) – with showers and a shop, has a rural feel and a decent view of the hills.
Restaurant choices are limited but if it's a slap-up parrilla you want, head to Oregón, near the southern exit of the village at San Martín and Laprida. Another worthwhile option is Patagonia Célta, Molino Viejo and 25 de Mayo ( 02945/156-87243), which serves meat and fish in a classy atmosphere. For a drink, Zweli, at Fontana and Perito Moreno, offers cold beers and an authentic taste of local life.