Argentina Guide
Neuquén and the Lake District
Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi
The mother of the Argentine national park system, PARQUE NACIONAL NAHUEL HUAPI protects a glorious chunk of the northern Patagonian cordillera and its neighbouring steppe. Its origins lie in a grant of 7000 hectares of land made by Dr Francisco P. Moreno to the national government in 1903 on the condition that it be safeguarded for the enjoyment of future generations. What started as the Parque Nacional del Sur has since grown to embrace its current colossal 710,000 hectares.
Most of the park falls within the watershed of the immense Lago Nahuel Huapi, an impressive expanse of water that can seem benign one moment and a froth of seething whitecaps the next. Of glacial origin, it's 557 square kilometres in area, and, with its peninsulas, islands and attenuated, fjord-like tentacles that sweep down from the thickly forested border region, forms the centrepiece of the park.
Ruta de los Siete Lagos
The Ruta de los Siete Lagos, or "Seven Lakes Route", one of Argentina's classic scenic drives, cuts right through Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, connecting San Martín de los Andes to Villa La Angostura, and continuing on to Bariloche in spectacular fashion. Along the way, the route goes through forested valleys and gives access to many more than seven wild lakes. You'll pass several fishing spots – buy permits before setting off (from tourist offices, YPF stations or campsites). The route is mostly paved, but the remaining unsealed section – between Lago Villarino and Lago Espejo – can get extremely dusty, especially in summer. El Ko-Ko and Albus conveniently run daily services along the route between San Martín and Villa La Angostura.
The seven principal lakes dotting the roadside are, from north to south: Machónico, Falkner, Villarino, Escondido, Correntoso, Espejo and Nahuel Huapi. The route straddles Parque Nacional Lanín and Nahuel Huapi, though only Lago Machónico lies in Lanín.