MENDOZA is a mostly low-rise city, spread across the wide valley of the Río Mendoza, over 1000km west of Buenos Aires and less than 100km east of the highest section of the Andean cordillera – whose perennially snowcapped peaks are clearly visible from downtown. Its airy microcentro is less compact than that of most comparable cities, partly because the streets, squares and avenues were deliberately made wide when the city was rebuilt in the late nineteenth century, to allow for evacuation in the event of another major earthquake. Another striking feature is that every street is lined by bushy sycamore and plane trees – providing vital shade in the scorching summer months, they are watered by over 500km of acequias, or irrigation ditches, which form a natural, outdoor air-cooling system. Watch out, though, when you cross the city's streets, as the narrow gutters are up to a metre deep and often full of gushing water, especially in the spring when the upland snows melt.
The city has an attractive park and one or two museums that are worth taking a visit, but most people come to Mendoza principally to do a wine-tasting tour at the many bodegas in or near the city.
Bodegas in and around Mendoza
1 Chandón Agrelo 5507, Luján de Cuyo 
0261/490-9966 
visitorcenter@chandon.com.ar Opening time: Tours Feb– March & July Mon– Fri 9.30am, 11am, 12.30pm, 2.30pm & 4.30pm, Sat 9.30am, 11am & 12.30pm; rest of year Mon– Fri 10.30am, noon, 2.30pm & 4pmA modern bodega, somewhat lacking in character but impressive all the same, with excellent wine-tasting. The tours start with a video and end up at the salesroom. English or premium-tasting tours should be requested ahead. Bus #380.
2 Domaine St Diego Franklin Villanueva 3821, Maipú 0261/499-0414 juanmendoza@sinectis.com.ar Opening time: Tours (limited to six people) Mon– Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–2pm; reserve 24hr aheadSmall producer, specializing in cabernet sauvignon. One of the more intimatewineries in the region, giving visitors the chance to try good-quality wines after an hour in the vineyards and an hour in the bodega.
3 Escorihuela Belgrano 1188 and Presidente Alvear, Godoy Cruz 0261/424-2744 Opening time: Tours Mon– Fri 9.30am, 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm, 2.30pm & 3.30pmJust 2km south of Mendoza's city centre in Godoy Cruz, this historic bodega, founded in 1884, is famous for its fantastic and enormous barrel from Nancy, France, a work of art in itself, housed in a cathedral-like cellar. The sumptuous buildings include an art gallery, huge vaulted storage rooms stacked with aromatic casks and a gourmet restaurant, 1884 Francis Mallmann.
4 Giol ("La Colina de Oro") Ozamis 1040, Maipú 0261/497-2592 Tours Mon– Sat 9am–6.30pm, Sun & public holidays 11am–2pmA wonderfully old-fashioned place, with its fair share of antique barrels – including one of the biggest in South America – alongside the Museo Nacional del Vino y la Vendimia. Bus #160.
5 
El Lagar Carmelo Patti San Martín 2614, Luján de Cuyo 0261-4981379 Known as "El maestro del vino" (the wine master), local personality Carmelo has been working in the wine trade since 1971. Now with his own bodega, his enthusiasm and knowledge make him one of the best guides to wine in the area and its production (though request a translator if you don't speak Spanish). Visits are informal, but call ahead to arrange a mutually convenient time.
6 Lagarde San Martín 1745, Luján de Cuyo 0261/498-0011 
www.lagarde.com.ar Opening time: Tours Mon– Fri 10am, 11am, noon, 2.30pm & 3.30pmLagarde is a major producer, and the site is enormous, but well worth seeing. There's also an impressive vintage car exhibition.
7 Luigi Bosca San Martín 2044, Luján de Cuyo 0261/498-1974 www.luigibosca.com.ar Opening time: Tours Mon– Fri 10.30am, 3.30pm & 5pm, Sat noonOne of the best-known wine brands in Argentina, Luigi Bosca appears on many of the agency-run bodega trips. The professional guides are keen to emphasize the family credentials of the winery, but it all feels a bit too neat and commercial. There's an interesting art exhibition, though, which focuses on the parallels between the Stations of the Cross and wine production.
8 Nieto Senetiner Ruta Panamericana, Chacras de Coria 0261/498-0315 www.nietosentiner.com.ar Opening time: Tours Mon– Fri 10am, 11am, 12.30pm & 4pmSome of Argentina's finest wines are produced by this traditional winery. The 12.30pm tour is followed by a delicious lunch, which must be reserved in advance.
9 Norton RP-15, Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo 0261/488-0480 turismo@norton.com.ar Opening time: Tours Mon– Fri 9am, 10.30am, noon, 1.30pm, 3pm & 4.30pmA prize-winning producer, making top-class if slightly old-fashioned wines, but well worth the visit. Tours must be reserved in advance. Bus #380.
10 Salentein RP-89 and E. Videla, Tunuyán 02622/423550 www.bodegasalentein.com Opening time: Tours daily 11am, 1pm, 3pm (English)Price: $10One of the few bodegas to charge for tours, but also one of the most beautiful wineries in the country. Known as the "Cathedral to Wine", this magnificent state-of-the-art building, constructed using sumptuous stone, makes for a memorable experience; the wines themselves are also outstanding.
11 San Felipe ("La Rural") Montecaseros s/n, Coquimbito, Maipú 0261/497-2013 Opening time: Tours (bilingual) Mon– Sat 9am, 1pm, 2pm & 5.30pm, Sun 10am & 1pmThis magnificent traditional bodega stands among its own vineyards and has its own small museum. An interesting contrast with some of the more urban wineries. Bus #170.
12 Santa Ana Roca and Urquiza, Villa Nueva, Guaymallén 0261/421-1000 avivas@bodegas-santa-ana.com.ar Opening time: Tours Mon– Fri 9.30am, 10.45am, noon, 2.30pm, 3.45pm & 5pm One of the closest worthwhile bodegas, near the city centre, with an enchanting mix of old-style and ultra-modern. The tours are especially friendly, and English is spoken. Bus #20.
13 Viña El Cerno Moreno 631, Coquimbito, Maipú 0261/ 481-1567 elcerno@lanet.com.ar Opening time: Tours Mon– Fri 10am–5pm, weekend tours (Spanish only) can be arranged if you callPrice: US$5 per person, including bottle to take awayOne of the most satisfying boutique wineries, in a small traditional country house with a tiny vineyard. The malbec and chardonnay are delicious and the tour highly personalized and enthusiastic. Tapas evenings can be arranged for groups.
14 Weinert San Martín 5923, Chacras de Coria 0261/4960409 www.bodegaweinert.com Opening time: Tours Mon– Sat 10am–4.30pm One of Argentina's top wine producers, Weinert is also one of the country's oldest, with an enormous antique barrel still in use, a fabulous cellar and mud and cane buildings – characteristic of the area's indigenous population – used to provide the perfect temperature for fermentation. Tasting tours are family-friendly, with grape juice on hand so kids can feel included.