Argentina Guide
Córdoba and the Central Sierras
Santa Catalina
Almost completely hidden among the hills, Santa Catalina is the biggest, and undoubtedly the finest, Jesuit estancia (summer Tues– Sun 10am–1pm & 3–7pm, winter Tues– Sun 10am–1pm & 2–6pm; $1) in the region, an outstanding example of colonial architecture in the Spanish Americas. A sprawling yet harmonious set of early eighteenth-century buildings, it is dominated by its church, whose elegant silhouette and symmetrical towers suddenly and unexpectedly appear as you emerge from the woods. Whitewashed to protect the porous stone from the elements, the brightness of the building almost dazzles you when you approach. The church is dedicated to St Catherine of Alexandria, whose feast day is celebrated with pomp every November 25; the sternly imposing facade is reminiscent of the Baroque churches of southern Germany and Austria. Inside, the austere single nave, whitewashed like the exterior, is decorated with a gilded wooden retable that houses an image of St Catherine, and a fine carob-wood pulpit. The peaceful inner courtyards of the estancia's casco, or living quarters, are furnished with graceful wicker, leather and calfskin chairs, shaded by magnolias and bougainvilleas and cooled by Italianate fountains.
Accessible through a narrow passageway to the right of the church is the stylish La Ranchería, a small restaurant/confitería, plus a shop selling high-quality local crafts; someone should be on hand to serve you some delicious home-cured ham, a platter of cheese or cooked meals before showing you around the estancia. The charm of this place is that it looks and feels so lived-in: it's still the residence of direct descendants of Antonio Díaz, a mayor of Córdoba who acquired it in the 1770s, following the Jesuits' expulsion from the Spanish empire. Although you can't stay at the estancia itself, accommodation in the area can be found at the modern Posada Camino Real ( 
0351/6134287, 
www.posadacaminoreal.com.ar ; Price: $150-210), 10km north from Santa Catalina; the rooms are extremely comfortable, riding and other activities in the unspoilt countryside are laid on and a swimming pool and massages provide welcome relaxation.