Canada Guide
The North
The north is as much a state of mind as a place. People "north of 60" – the 60th Parallel – claim the right to be called northerners, and maintain a kinship with Alaskans, but those north of the Arctic Circle – the 66th Parallel – look with light-hearted disdain on these "southerners". All mock the inhabitants of the northernmost corners of Alberta and such areas of the so-called Northwest, who, after all, live with the luxury of being able to get around their backcountry by road. To any outsider, however, in terms of landscape and overall spirit the north begins well south of the 60th Parallel. Accordingly, this section includes not just the territories of the "true north" – Yukon, Nunavut and parts of the western Arctic and Northwest Territories – but also northern British Columbia and Alberta, regions of both provinces that are considerably starker and more remote than areas further south.
Highlights
1 Haida Gwaii A superb archipelago of wild islands whose natural profusion has earned them the title of the Canadian Galapagos.
2 Alaska Highway Some 2500km of stunning wilderness make this one of North America's great drives.
3 Dawson City The focus of the Klondike Gold Rush is western Canada's most atmospheric and compelling historic town.
4 Dempster Highway The only public road in North America to cross the Arctic Circle offers a fascinating insight into the tundra and other landscapes of the far north.
5 Nahanni National Park Magnificent gorges, waterfalls and mountain scenery are the chief attractions in one of Canada's finest national parks.
6 Auyuittuq National Park Arctic scenery and culture are always compelling, but nowhere more so than in this largely glacial redoubt on Baffin Island.
Nahanni National Park
With gorges deeper than the Grand Canyon and waterfalls twice the height of Niagara, the vast Nahanni National Park ( 
www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/nt/nahanni/index_e.asp ) ranks as one of the finest national parks in North America and one of the most rugged wilderness areas anywhere in the world. Located close to the Yukon border in the heart of the Mackenzie Mountains, it surrounds the South Nahanni River, a renowned 322-kilometre stretch of water whose white-water torrents, pristine mountains and 1200-metre-deep canyons have attracted the world's most eminent explorers and the ultimate thrill-seeking canoeists (the river is one of the best white-water runs in the world). Unless you fit one of these categories, however, or can afford to fork out for guided trips by boat or sightseeing by air – well worth the money, even if you're only out in the wilderness for a short time – there's no way of getting close to the best areas, even by backpacking: the park is totally roadless and totally wild. Also note that the popularity of trips means that there's a reservation and fee system for people wishing to use the river: the day-use fee is $19.80, the reservation fee for overnight trips $125, and there are strict quotas on numbers visiting the park, so check the latest details whether you intend to visit independently or with a tour. For full information, contact the Nahanni National Park Reserve Office ( 
867/695-3151, Enahanni.info@pc.gc.ca ) or visitor centre in Fort Simpson.
For day-trips to the spectacular Virginia Falls, the most popular day outing in the park (usually with 2hr on the ground), contact Wolverine Air ( 867/695-2263 or 1-888/695-2263, www.wolverineair.com ) which will take groups of three people for a 5 hour flight in a float-plane to Nahanni for $1200, with stops at Virginia Falls and at the idyllic Little Doctor Lake at the edge of the mountain range. Simpson Air ( 867/695-2505, www.simpsonair.com ), whose offices are almost next door to Wolverine on the southwest edge of town – offer a slightly cheaper service but very similar trips. Simpson air also offers a flight in conjunction with a cabin rental on Little Doctor Lake – two or three days in romantic seclusion cost $1500 for two; a week $2400.