Sweden Guide
The Bothnian coast
Facing Finland across the waters of the Gulf of Bothnia, Sweden's east coast forms a corridor of land that, with its jumble of erstwhile fishing towns and squeaky-clean modern cities, is quite unlike the rest of the north. The coast is dominated by towns and cities, the endless forest so characteristic of other parts of northern Sweden having been felled here to make room for the settlements that dot almost the entire coastline. Some, such as Gävle, still have their share of old wooden houses, offering evocative images of the past, though much was lost during the Russian incursions of the eighteenth century. Others, such as Sundsvall, Umeå and Luleå, are more typical – modern, bright and airy. Throughout the north you'll also find traces of the religious fervour that swept the region in centuries past: Skellefteå and, particularly, Luleå boast excellently preserved kyrkstäder, or parish villages, clusters of wooden cottages dating from the 1700s, where villagers from outlying districts would spend the night after making the lengthy journey to church in the nearest town.
The highlight of the Bothnian Coast, however, is undoubtedly Höga Kusten, or the High Coast, north of Härnösand – an indented stretch of shimmering fjords, tall cliffs and a string of pine-clad islands on which it's possible to island-hop up the coast. The weather may not be as reliable as further south, but you're guaranteed clean beaches – often all to yourself – crystal-clear waters and some fine walking.
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