Spain Guide
Galicia
Passionately entangled with the Atlantic Ocean, at the northwest corner of the Iberian Peninsula, Galicia feels far removed from the rest of Spain. Everywhere is green, from the high forested hills to the rolling fields, a patchwork of tiny plots still farmed by hand; indeed, with its craggy coast and mild, wet climate, Galicia is more like Ireland than Andalucía. Its people take pride in their Celtic heritage – they even play the bagpipes – and in speaking their own language, Galego.
And yet Galicia is hardly off the beaten track. Pilgrims have been making their way to its greatest city, Santiago de Compostela, for well over a thousand years. Still focused around its unspoiled medieval core, a delightful labyrinth of ancient arcades and alleyways, Santiago remains an unmissable gem.
For modern visitors, Galicia has another irresistible attraction – its gorgeous shoreline, indented with the long, narrow estuaries known as rías. Above the slender sea-level strip, punctuated by tiny fishing villages, low-key resorts, and pretty, secluded sandy beaches, steep green slopes soar into the mysterious hills. Broadly speaking, the Rías Altas in the north are wilder and emptier, while the picturesque Rías Baixas, neighbouring Portugal, are warmer and more developed, and consequently attract many more visitors.
Apart from the modern ports of A Coruña and Vigo, the seaside towns are generally small. Sadly, however, in many areas, the coastline is depressingly overbuilt, albeit with suburban villas and seaside apartments rather than high-rise hotels. With each town tending to merge into the next, those few resorts that still centre on sturdy little medieval harbours, such as Cambados, Muros and Baiona, are especially welcome.
Like the Irish, the Galegos are renowned for having emigrated all over the world. An untranslatable Galego word, morriña, describes the exiles' particular sense of homesick, nostalgic longing. That Celtic melancholy has its counterpart in the exuberant devotion to the land, its culture and its produce. Above all, Galegos view their food and wine almost as sacraments; share in a feast of the fresh local seafood, washed down with a crisp white Albariño, and you may find the morriña gets a hold on you, too.
Highlights
1 Santiago de Compostela The goal of pilgrims for over a thousand years, this ravishing cathedral city is a labyrinth of ancient lanes and dramatic squares.
2 Pontevedra Pontevedra's sleepy zona monumental metamorphoses into a lively party zone after dark.
3 The Illas Cíes The pristine sands of these three islets make for an irresistible day-trip.
4 The Parador at Baiona Considering its unsurpassable setting, room rates at this fabulous hotel are surprisingly affordable.