Romania Guide
Transylvania
Thanks to Bram Stoker and Hollywood, Transylvania (from the Latin for "beyond the forest") is famed abroad as the homeland of Dracula, a mountainous place where storms lash medieval hamlets, while wolves – or werewolves – howl from the surrounding woods. The fictitious image is accurate up to a point: the scenery is breathtakingly dramatic, especially in the Prahova valley, the Turda and Bicaz gorges and around the high passes; there are spooky Gothic citadels, around Braşov and at Sibiu, Sighişoara and Bran; and there was a Vlad, born in Sighişoara, who earned the grim nickname "The Impaler" and later became known as Dracula.
But the Dracula image is just one element of Transylvania, whose near 100,000 square kilometres take in alpine meadows and peaks, caves and dense forests sheltering bears and wild boars, and lowland valleys where buffalo cool off in the rivers. The population is an ethnic jigsaw of Romanians, Magyars, Germans and Gypsies, among others, formed over centuries of migration and colonization, with high feelings in both Hungary and Romania routinely exploited by politicians. The result is an intoxicating brew of characters, customs and places that is best taken in slowly.
For the visitor, most striking of all are the stuhls, the former seats of Saxon power, with their medieval streets, defensive towers and fortified churches. Meanwhile, the Carpathian mountains are never far away in Transylvania, and for anyone fond of walking this is one of the most beautiful, least exploited regions in Europe. Hikes to stunning places in the Făgăraş, Apuseni and Retezat ranges can last several days, but it's perfectly feasible to make briefer yet equally dramatic forays into the Piatra Craiului or Bucegi mountains, or to one of Transylvania's many spectacular gorges.
Highlights
1 Braşov Wander the beautiful Baroque streets of Braşov's old town, whose medieval ramparts contain a variety of modern restaurants and bars.
2 Hiking in the Făgăraş and Retezat mountains The dramatic schists of the Făgăraş and the quieter beauty of the Retezat make for the most exceptional trekking in Transylvania.
3 Sighişoara With its spiky skyline and quintessentially medieval old town, Sighişoara is a befitting birthplace for Vlad the Impaler.
4 Saxon fortified churches Set high up on a hill, Biertan's Saxon church is the most prominent of the massive and austerely fortified churches that dominate many of the region's villages.
5 Sibiu With its gorgeous cobbled squares, outstanding museums and colourful festivals, this is the most engaging of Romanian cities.
6 Folk music Whether it's an organized festival or an average Saturday night, you're likely to find a marvellous array of musical happenings to suit all tastes.
The Făgăraş mountains
The Făgăraş mountains are composed mainly of crystalline schists with occasional limestone outcrops, a series of pyramidal crests, linked by narrow ridges, that harbours more than seventy lakes at heights of 1800 to 2250m. Up to about 2000m the mountainsides are covered with spruce forests sheltering deer, bears, chamois and other wildlife; above this level there may still be snow as late as June.
Most hiking routes are well marked and fairly simple to follow with a Hartă Turistică Munţii Făgăraşuluimap, which can be bought in Braşov, Bran, Făgăraş or Sibiu, or in the cabanas in the mountains. It's useful, but rarely essential, to reserve accommodation. Always carry ample food and water, and wear boots and waterproofs – the weather is very changeable on the ridge.
Almost invariably, the starting point is one of the settlements along the Olt valley, where marked routes lead from the train stations to the mountains. All trains stop at Ucea, where passengers clamber onto buses south to Victoria, a town dominated by its chemical works, the siren of which is audible on the main ridge of the Făgăraş. From the bus station, follow the main road uphill to the works gates and then the route marked with red triangles round to the right (west). A forestry track bypasses the Arpaş cabana ( 
0268/241 433; Price: Under €15) and continues as a steep trail past the Turnuri cabana ( 0744/936 809; Price: Under €15) and up to the basic Podragu cabana ( 0745/319 766; Price: Under €15) at 2136m, reached in eight to ten hours. From the Podragu, follow the ridge path marked with red stripes, either eastwards past Romania's highest peak, Moldoveanu (2544m), descending by the Sâmbăta valley to the friendly Valea Sâmbatei cabana ( 0722/760 840; Price: Under €15) and the Complex Turistic Sâmbâta (with a monastery and accommodation; Price: Under €15), from where occasional buses head to Făgăraş and Victoria, 11km west; or west to Bâlea Lake (2034m); the Bâlea Lac hotel ( 0788/609 930; Price: €26-35) also has dorms, a decent restaurant-bar, and an attractive terasa by the lake. From Bâlea Lac, you can descend either by the Trans-Făgăraş Highway (usually June– Sept) or by a cable car to the Bâlea Cascada cabana ( 0269/524 255; Price: Under €15), and from there to the Vama Cucului cabana ( 0269/524 717; Price: Under €15), Cărtişoara and the Cărţa rail halt.