Italy Guide
Sardinia
Closer to the North African coast at Tunisia than the Italian mainland, Sardinia (Sardegna) can feel distinctly un-Italian. D.H. Lawrence found it exotically different when he passed through here in 1921 – "lost", as he put it, "between Europe and Africa and belonging to nowhere." The island may seem less remote nowadays – and it's certainly more accessible, with frequent flights serving Cágliari, Olbia and Alghero – but large tracts remain remarkably untouched by tourism, particularly the interior. The island's main draw, however, is its dazzling coastline, with some of the cleanest beaches in Italy, which can be packed in peak season (particularly August), when ferries bring in a steady stream of sun-worshippers from what the islanders call il continente, or mainland Italy. The weather is generally warm enough for a swim as early as May, however, and October is bright and sunny – reason enough to avoid the summer crowds.
On the whole, Sardinia's smaller centres are the most attractive, but the lively capital, Cágliari – for many the arrival point – shouldn't be written off. With good accommodation and restaurants, it makes a useful base for exploring the southern third of the island. The other main ferry port is Olbia in the north, little more than a transit town but conveniently close to the pristine beaches of the jagged northern coast. The Costa Smeralda, a few kilometres distant, is Sardinia's best-known resort area and lives up to its reputation for glitzy opulence.
Both Olbia and Cágliari have airports, as does the vibrant resort of Alghero – a fishing port with a distinctive Catalan flavour in the northwest of the island that retains a friendly, unspoiled air despite its healthy tourist industry. Sardinia's biggest interior town, Nuoro, makes a useful stopover for visiting some of the remoter mountain areas. Of these, the Gennargentu range, covering the heart of the island, holds the highest peaks and provides rich evidence of the island's traditional culture, in particular the numerous village festivals.
Highlights
1 Cágliari's old town Cágliari's Castello quarter is the most atmospheric part of town, a dense warren of alleys girded by thick walls.
2 Nora Although much of this Carthaginian and Roman archeological site is submerged under the sea, what remains – including mosaics, a theatre and baths – gives a good indication of the town's former importance.
3 Nuraghe Su Nuraxi Sardinia's mysterious prehistoric nuraghi are strewn throughout the island, and this is one of the most impressive.
4 Oristano Medieval town which hosts the spectacular Sa Sartiglia festival of pageantry and horsemanship.
5 Tiscali A vast mountain cave housing the remains of a prehistoric village.
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