Italy Guide
Puglia
Puglia is the long strip of land, 400km from north to south, that makes up the heel of Italy. For centuries it was a strategic province, colonized, invaded and conquered (like its neighbours, Calabria and Sicily) by just about every major power of the day – from the Greeks through to the Spanish. These days clean seas and reliable sunshine are the draw for holidaymakers both Italian and foreign.
Puglia's cities, generally visited only as transport hubs, merit some exploration nevertheless. Lecce is worth a visit of a day or two for its crazed confection of Baroque churches and laid-back café life. Though Bari is not a traditional tourist destination, reinvestment in its maze-like old city is drawing visitors in-the-know for its ambiance and excellent restaurants, while Bríndisi, best-known for its ferry connections with Greece, lies just 15km away from the beautiful Torre Guaceto nature reserve, a long stretch of uncontaminated sand dunes, macchia and clear water where you can cycle, walk or scuba dive.
The geographical diversity of Puglia is very attractive. The Tavoliere (table-land) of the north boasts mile after mile of wheatfields, while there's plenty of barren mountain scenery in the undulating plateau of Le Murge, in the centre of the province. The hilly, forested Gargano promontory juts out to the east, and is fringed by gently shelving, sandy beaches, seaside hotels and campsite villages that make good places for a family holiday – though you'll need to catch a ferry to the Trémiti Islands for the clearest sea. The best escape is to the southernmost tip, the Salentine peninsula where the terrain is rocky and dry, more Greek than Italian, and there are some beautiful coves and sea caves to swim in.
Highlights
1 Vieste For sun and sea, head for this resort which offers the the option of travelling onwards to the Trémiti Islands. &
2 Trani The eleventh-century cathedral here is a gem, its interior restored to its original Norman state and the building itself impressively located on the waterfront of what was one of Italy's most important medieval ports.
3 Martina Franca This lively town with its Moorish feel makes a good base for exploring the surrounding area's trulli – Puglia's traditional conical whitewashed buildings.
4 Ostuni One of the most stunning hill-top towns in southern Italy, with a sun-bleached old quarter and a sandy coastline 7km away.
5 Lecce In the southern tip of Italy, Lecce is an exuberant city of Baroque architecture and opulent churches.