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Italy Guide

Liguria

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    Sheltering on the seaward side of the mountains that divide Piemonte from the coast, Liguria is the classic introduction to Italy for travellers journeying overland through France. There's an unexpected change as you cross the border: the Italian Riviera here has more variety of landscape and architecture than its French counterpart, and is generally less frenetic. And if you want to escape the crowds the mountains, which in places drop sheer to the sea, can offer respite from the standard format of beach, beach and more beach.

    The chief city of the region is Genoa, an ancient, sprawling port often acclaimed as the most atmospheric of all Italian cities. It has a dense and fascinating old quarter that is complemented by newly energized dockside district. To the west is San Remo, the grande-dame of Riviera resorts, and Finale Ligure a thoroughly pleasant Mediterranean seaside town.

    On Genoa's eastern side is the dramatic coastal scenery of the Cinque Terre a series of fishing villages, once accessible only by boat, as well as the resort of Portofino among the most expensive in the country. Nearby Santa Margherita Ligure makes a great base for day-trips to Genoa, under an hour away, or for exploring the surrounding coastline by train or car, as does the pretty fishing village of Camogli. Generally the best times to visit are spring and autumn.

    Highlights

    1 Genoa With its rabbit warren of medieval streets, revamped port area and clutch of first-rate museums and churches, Genoa could easily justify a week of your time.

    2 San Remo With its famous Art Nouveau casino, elegant palm-tree-lined seafront and pleasant old quarter, San Remo affords a glimpse of old-style Riviera glamour.

    3 Camogli A collection of colourful cottages surrounding an idyllic harbour, Camogli is one of the coast's prettiest fishing villages.

    4 Cinque Terre Five picturesque villages shoehorned into one of the most rugged parts of Liguria's coastline and linked by a highly scenic coastal walking path.