Italy Guide
Campania
The region immediately south of Lazio, Campania, marks the real beginning of the Italian south or mezzogiorno. It's the part of the south too, perhaps inevitably, that most people see, as it's easily accessible from Rome and home to some of the area's (indeed Italy's) most notable features – Roman sites, spectacular stretches of coast and tiny islands. Naples is the obvious focus, an utterly compelling city and one that dominates the region in every way.
The Bay of Naples, certainly, is dense enough in interest to occupy you for a good week: there are the ancient sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum just half an hour away – arguably Italy's best-preserved and most revealing Roman remains; there is the odd, volcanic Campi Flegrei area to the northwest of the city; and of course there are the islands, Cápri, Ischia and Prócida. Cápri swarms with visitors but is so beautiful that a day here is by no means time squandered, while Ischia, which is the largest island and absorbs tourists more readily, is a lively and attractive place in which you could while away an entire holiday.
Inland Campania is, by contrast, a poor, unknown region for the most part, though the towns just outside of Naples – Caserta, Cápua – repay a brief visit; and Benevento, an old stop on the Roman route to Bríndisi, has a flavour that's quite distinct from the coastal regions. The area south of Naples has more immediate appeal. Sorrento, at the far southeast end of the bay, is a major package-holiday destination, but a cheery and likeable place for all that; and the Amalfi coast, across the peninsula, is perhaps Europe's most dramatic stretch of coastline, harbouring some fantastically enticing – if occasionally exclusive – beach resorts. Further south, the lively port of Salerno gives access to the Hellenistic site of Paestum and the uncrowded coastline of the Cilento just beyond.
Highlights
1 Museo Archeologico Nazionale A superb museum with a wealth of Greek and Roman artefacts.
2 Pizza in Naples Choose between any number of traditional, family-run restaurants for a pizza, sizzling hot straight from a wood-fired oven.
3 Herculaneum and Pompeii These sites afford an unparalleled glimpse into ancient Roman daily life and architecture.
4 Cápri A jewel of an island with stunning scenery and cliff walks.
5 Ischia Larger than Cápri and better able to absorb the visitors – as well as being no less alluring.
6 Paestum Majestic Greek temples and colourful tomb paintings.