Ireland Guide
The Midlands: Westmeath, Longford, Offaly and Laois
Obeying the siren call of the west coast, most foreign tourists, and indeed Irish holiday-makers, put their foot down to motor through the Midlands as quickly as possible. It's true that you're unlikely to want to make a comprehensive tour of the area, but if you fancy a stopover off the main radial routes out of Dublin, there are some compelling sights, and a surprisingly varied landscape, to discover.
CountyWestmeath's dairy farms are interspersed with large, glassy lakes, including Lough Ennell to the south of Mullingar, the county town, on whose shores Belvedere House is well worth a short detour off the N4. Among the county's more northerly lakes are the pastoral charms of the Fore Valley , where you can poke around medieval monastic remains and be entertained by their wondrous legends. The N4 ploughs on through County Longford, mostly rich grasslands but blending into Ulster's drumlin country in its northern third.
The major ecclesiastical site of Clonmacnois, just south of Athlone, enjoys a dreamy setting above the river's meanders and meadows. Elsewhere, County Offaly is known for its bogs, whose desolation can be definitively explored on the Clonmacnois and West Offaly Railway, but Birr, with its imposing castle and Georgian terraces, makes one of the best bases in the Midlands. CountyLaois (pronounced "leash") is mostly lush grazing and cereal land; the attractive estate-town of Abbeyleix is your best bet for a break on the N8 Cork road.
Highlights
1 Belvedere House A beautifully restored Georgian hunting lodge, set in attractive gardens, overlooking Lough Ennell.
2 The Fore Valley Explore the rich ecclesiastical history of this remote, green valley or suspend your disbelief in appreciation of its Seven Wonders.
3 Clonmacnois The Midlands' pre-eminent historical site, a prestigious complex of churches and ornate high-crosses overlooking the River Shannon.
4 Birr Castle Wander around the huge and varied grounds and immerse yourself in the scientific exploits of the talented Parsons family at the Historic Science Centre.
5 Morrissey's Bar Soak up the atmosphere at this characterful pub-grocery in Abbeyleix, which has changed little since it was built in 1880.