Budapest Guide
Várhegy and central Buda
Eating
1 Arcade XII, Kiss János altábornagy utca 38 
1/225-1969 
www.arcadebistro.hu Upmarket place, with a low-key modern interior and a small terrace, serving excellent international cuisine with a strong French influence. There's also a range of good Hungarian wines. A meal will set you back 9000Ft a head with half a bottle of wine, unless you go for more expensive corks such as the Gere Kopár. Opening time: Mon– Sun 11am–11pm
2 Café Pierrot I, Fortuna utca 14 1/375-6971 A rare elegant hangout in the Communist era, Pierrot remains one of the better places in the Castle area today. It serves good, well-presented food, though the prices are steep by local standards and the easy-listening piano music can get a bit much. Salads from 2800Ft, mains from 3500Ft. Opening time: Daily 11am– midnight
3 Carne di Hall II, Bem rakpart 20 1/210-8137 www.carnedihall.com Under the same management as Lou Lou in Pest, and serving food that's just as good, even if the pun in the name (a reference to Carnegie Hall) doesn't quite work. Service is leisurely. Delicious steaks and chocolate torte. Mains 2500–4500Ft. Opening time: Daily noon– midnight
4 
Csalogány 26 I, Csalogány utca 26 1/210-7892 www.csalogany26.hu Another excellent new bistro down the hill towards the river from Moszkva tér that has avoided the temptation to go for showiness and high prices. Opened by a former Lou Lou chef, it has immediately picked up a deserving reputation for its menu. You may have to wait for your meal, as the exacting chef oversees everything in a very small kitchen. Mains from 2800Ft, lunchtime menu 1200ft for two courses, 1400Ft for three. Booking essential. Opening time: Mon– Fri noon–3pm & 7pm– midnight, Sat 7pm– midnight
5 Gusto's II, Frankel Leó utca 1/316-3970 Near the Buda side of Margit híd, this charming little bar serves light meals (and very good tiramisu) at moderate prices – main dishes start at 1500Ft. Booking essential. Opening time: Mon– Fri 10am–10pm, Sat 10am–4pm
6 Horgásztanya I, Fő utca 27 1/489-0236 An enjoyable fish restaurant with a regular clientele and decor that has has remained unchanged for many years – thankfully it's resisted the forces of modernization. Some of the best fish soups in the city are served in generous portions from 900Ft; mains start at 1900Ft. Opening time: Daily noon–11pm
7 Márkus Vendéglő II, Lövőház utca 17 1/212-3153 Close to Moszkva tér, this is a great no-frills place option after a long walk in the Buda Hills. Large portions of traditional Hungarian dishes, including an excellent Jókai bableves (a filling, smoky bean soup) and various stuffed turkey dishes. Prices are still pretty reasonable, with soup, a main course and glass of wine at 4100Ft. Menus in English available. Opening time: Daily noon– midnight
8 Rivalda I, Színház utca 5–9 1/489-0236 Unlike so many other places on Várhegy, the Rivalda attracts a loyal local clientele. Prices are fairly steep, but in return you get cooking of a high standard (the chicken with mustard maple syrup and the chocolate gateau are especially recommended) and wacky, theatrically inspired decor. Mains from 3400Ft, and two- or three-course lunch menus at 4000Ft. Opening time: Daily 11.30am–11.30pm