Budapest Guide
The Belváros
Eating
1 Gerlóczy V, Gerlóczy utca 1 
1/235-0953 
www.gerloczy.hu . This atmospheric corner café on quiet Károly Kammermayer tér, not far from the busy Károly körút, gets packed at lunchtime with office staff popping in for a quick lunch. The food is adequate bistro fare. Opening time: Daily 8am–11pm
2 Károlyi V, Károlyi Mihály utca 16 1/328-0240. It's the courtyard setting in the heart of the city, inside the gates of the Petőfi Museum and backing onto the Károlyi garden behind, that makes this place so special. The interior is also pleasant, and even nicer when the piano player takes his breaks. Good-sized portions of trad Hungarian fare with mains 1700–3500Ft. Opening time: Daily 11am– midnight
3 Rézkakas V, Veres Pálné utca 3 1/318-0038 www.rezkakasrestaurant.com . The smart "Golden Cockerel" (as the name translates) is one of the best places to eat in traditional Hungarian style, with an excellent Gypsy band playing away in the corner. Popular with foreign visitors, so expect to pay from 3000Ft up to 7000Ft for a main course. Opening time: Daily noon– midnight
4 Trattoria Toscana V, Belgrád rakpart 13, 1/327-0045 www.toscana.hu . On the Danube riverfront near Szabadság Bridge, this is a favourite spot for authentic Italian cuisine at reasonable prices, and with appealing faux Tuscan surroundings. The atmosphere is relaxed despite the smart business clientele. On Sun from Sept– June, a clown offers entertainment for the kids. Mains from 2400Ft. Opening time: Daily noon– midnight
5 Astoria Kávéház V, Kossuth utca 19. The Astoria hotel's Mirror coffee house/bar dates from the turn of the last century and is still a popular meeting place. Opening time: Daily 7am–11pm
6 
Azték V, in the Röser-bazár, a courtyard running between Károly körút 22 and Semmelweis utca 19 www.choxolat.hu . Perhaps the best place in the city for chocolate gourmands, selling home-made chocolate as well as imported products (all made with a minimum of sugar) and fabulous hot chocolate – ask for the extra thick variety, which will warm you up on a winter's day. You can sit at the tables inside, or outside in summer in the courtyard. Opening time: Mon– Fri 7am–7pm, Sat 9am–2pm
7 Centrál Kávéház V, Károlyi Mihály utca 9. In its heyday, the decades around World War I, this large coffee house was a popular venue in Budapest's literary scene, and after many years as a dowdy university club, it has now been restored to its former grandeur. Serves a wide range of food throughout the day, from cheap favourites such as creamed spinach to more expensive dishes. Opening time: Daily 8am– midnight or 1am
8 Gerbeaud V, Vörösmarty tér 7. A Budapest institution with a gilded salon and terrace, and good service; always packed with tourists. Opening time: Daily 9am–9pm