Budapest Guide
Terézváros and Erzsébetváros
Nagymező utca
Nagymező utca was nicknamed "Broadway" because of its theatres and nightclubs. During the interwar years, the best-known club was the Arizona, run by Sándor Rozsnyai and his wife Miss Arizona (which inspired Pal Sándor's 1988 film of the same name, starring Hanna Schygulla and Marcello Mastroianni); the Rozsnyais were murdered by the Arrow Cross in 1944. Their club was at Nagymező utca 20, in the former home of the Habsburg court photographer who lends his name to the bottle-green tiled Mai Manó House (Mai Mano Ház; Mon– Fri 2–7pm, Sat, Sun & holidays 11am–7pm; 700Ft; www.maimano.hu), which features temporary photographic exhibitions in three separate galleries, and an excellent photographic bookshop on the first floor. Across the street, take a look at the statue of the composer Imre Kálmán, lounging on a bench outside the Operetta Theatre.
At Nagymező utca 8, on the far side of Andrássy, the Ernst Museum (Ernst Múzeum; Tues– Sun 11am–7pm; 600Ft; www.mucsarnok.hu) is another venue for temporary exhibitions. It's worth a peek inside purely to see the Art Nouveau features by József Rippl-Rónai and Ödön Lechner; take a look at the Art Deco lobby of the Tivoli theatre next door, too.