Budapest Guide
Terézváros and Erzsébetváros
Eating
1 Belcanto VI, Dalszínház utca 8 
1/269-2786 
www.belcanto.hu . Right across from the Opera House, this is a smart place whose distinctive feature is that in the course of the evening the waiters join together for bursts of song, making for a lively atmosphere. They serve good international fare, but with mains starting at 5000Ft, this isn't a cheap evening out. Opening time: Daily noon–3pm & 6pm– midnight
2 
Bock Bisztró VII, Erzsébet körút 43–49 1/321-0340 www.bockbisztro.hu . A great place to eat, both classy and relaxed, with friendly staff and delicious, reasonably priced food (mains 2800–4400Ft), and children's portions at 70 percent of full price. Meat takes pride of place here, in true Hungarian fashion, but there are also modern takes on classic dishes: the Esterházy chicken and smoked duck breast are both recommended. Located within the Grand Corinthia hotel, the Bock takes its name from one of Hungary's top vintners, József Bock, and its stock includes many labels that you won't find elsewhere in the city. A number of wines can be ordered by the glass. Booking essential. Unobtrusive live guitar or accordion music in the evenings. Opening time: Mon– Sat noon– midnight
3 Bouchon VI, Zichy Jenő utca 33 1/353-4094. Pleasant restaurant set up by former Café Kör staff. Matching the Kör would be a challenge, but the friendly manager runs a cheerful place serving traditional Hungarian fare. Mains from 2300Ft, and you can order a wide selection of wines by the glass. Small portions are available at 70 percent of full price. Opening time: Mon– Sat 9am–11pm
4 Carmel VII, Kazinczy utca 31 1/322-1834 www.carmel.hu . Long-established Jewish restaurant that turned glatt kosher in 2008. Their food has improved recently, the decor classier with a/c, and in Aug & Sept they have klezmer-style concerts (2000Ft) on Thurs from 8pm. Opening time: Sun– Thurs noon–11pm, Fri noon–4pm
5 Chez Daniel VI, Szív utca 32 1/302-4039. Fresh ingredients, including fish, are a plus at this pricey French restaurant run by idiosyncratic master chef Daniel Labrosse, who is brilliant and friendly when in form. In summer things move out into the atmospheric courtyard. Booking recommended. Opening time: Daily noon–10.30pm
6 Eklektika VI, Nagymező utca 30 1/266-1226 www.eklektika.hu . Laid-back café-restaurant with a youngish clientele and a strong arty feel, with changing displays by local artists on the walls. It's open all day, serving buffet breakfasts, all-you-can-eat lunches, and great suppers at very reasonable prices – mains from 1800Ft. Occasional live jazz, a DJ every Tues, and on Sat the owners promise a surprise event at 9pm. Opening time: Mon– Fri 10am– midnight, Sat– Sun noon– midnight
7 Fausto's Osteria VII, Dohány utca 5 1/269-6806 www.osteria.hu . This excellent and elegant Italian restaurant was originally opened by master chef Fausto DiVora. Even though he has moved to his new, more upmarket Fausto's, off Andrássy út, the service and cooking here remain outstanding. Mains start at 2600Ft, but the three-course chef's menu is just 2800Ft. Both restaurants have the same opening times: Opening time: Mon– Sat noon–3pm & 5–11pm
8 Fészek VII, Kertész utca 36 1/322-6043. Housed in an artists' club on the corner of Dob utca, this has a wonderful arcaded courtyard shaded by a huge chestnut tree, and it is worth visiting in summer for the setting alone. Shame the food on the huge menu does not match the surroundings. In winter the restaurant moves into the sparse but elegant interior, and the menu is much shorter. Main courses from 1600Ft. Opening time: Daily noon–11pm
9 Giero VI, Paulay Ede utca 58. The food is almost a sideshow at this highly atmospheric cellar restaurant run by a Roma family, who also provide the music. There are just three tables, as a third of the space is given over to the musicians – who play for themselves, their friends, or for customers if the band likes the look of them. The restaurant's very relaxed with a small menu (which may not be that relevant to what they have on the day) and the prices are also flexible – and cheap. The food is sometimes marvellous and fresh, sometimes less so, but that's beside the point. In summer the Giero occasionally turns into a jazz bar. Opening time: Daily noon– midnight (times flexible)
10 Il Terzo Cerchio VII, Dohány utca 40 1/354-0788. The Third Circle of Dante's hell was full of gluttons, and this Florentine-run pizzeria has its share. It has moved to larger and more elegant premises on the corner of Nyár utca, where the ceiling has been stripped back to reveal the fine brick vaulting. It's popular with Italian visitors, which must be a good sign, and serves up good food at reasonable prices: pastas and pizzas from 1600Ft. Seafood is a speciality – try the linguine with octopus, at 2900Ft. Opening time: Daily noon–11.30pm
11 Két Szerecsen VI, Nagymező utca 14 1/343- 1984 www.ketszerecsen.com . Buzzy place just off Andrássy út, good for coffee and breakfast but also for supper. Excellent starters, including an aubergine spread served on toast. Mains start at 1900Ft and include the interesting breast of duck in a red wine chocolate sauce with mashed potato (2700Ft). They offer a starter and main course, plus half a bottle of wine, for 7500Ft, but the wine list is small and surprisingly expensive. Opening time: Mon– Fri 8am–1am, Sat– Sun 9am–1am
12 Klassz VI, Andrássy út 41 1/413-1545. This strikingly decorated restaurant-cum-wine bar is one of the best places in Budapest – klassz means "super", which describes it well. Since it's small, popular and does not take reservations, you'll need to arrive early to be sure of a table. Its links with the Budapest Wine Society ensure a choice of top Hungarian vintages, most of which are available by the glass, and the staff can advise on what goes well with what. The duck in honey sauce is delicious (2400Ft), and they also have mangalica – a Hungarian breed of hairy pig that's rather in vogue on Budapest menus, but may be a touch fatty for some tastes. Opening time: Mon– Sat 11.30am–11pm, Sun 11.30am–6pm
13 Kőleves VII, Dob utca 26 1/322-1011 www.koleves.com . The latest incarnation of this restaurant on the corner of Kazinczy utca has a relaxed, art-house vibe but slow service. Mains cost 1500–3700Ft and include veal and chicken dishes (with olive or goat's cheese stuffings, for example) and smoked turkey leg with sólet (Jewish baked beans). Menu of the day 900Ft. Opening time: Mon– Sat 11am– midnight, Sun till 11pm
14 Krizia VI, Mozsár utca 12 1/331-8711. Small and elegant Italian restaurant, not far from the Opera, that serves fabulous food with mains from 2600Ft and good three-course menus for just 1200–2600Ft. The owner makes his own salami and jams. Opening time: Mon– Sat noon–3pm & 6.30pm– midnight
15 M VII, Kertész utca 48 1/322-3108. Small, wood-panelled place, near the Music Academy and spread over two floors. Boho atmosphere, slow service and pleasant enough food. The menu includes lots of salads and chicken dishes; a starter, main and wine will cost about 3700Ft. Opening time: Daily noon– midnight
16 Marquis de Salade VI, Hajós utca 43 1/302-4086. Cuisine with a strong Azerbaijani flavour, served up in generous portions in this basement restaurant decorated with beautiful Persian carpets. The starters are particularly tasty, and the lamb main dishes are outstanding. The wine list is surprisingly limited and the bottled water is among the most expensive in the city. Expect a three-course meal with wine to come to 8000Ft a head. Opening time: Daily 11am– midnight
17 Menza VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 2 1/413-1482. Good, moderately priced establishment with stylish retro decor, and retro Hungarian dishes too, such as hagymás rostélyos (braised steak piled high with onions; 1890Ft) and kolozsvári töltött káposzta (stuffed cabbage; 1490Ft) which evoke nostalgic memories among the locals. There's also a two-course lunch menu for 890Ft. It's on popular drinking square Liszt Ferenc tér, however, and some of the area's loud swagger seems to have rubbed off on Menza. Opening time: Daily 10am– midnight
18 Olimpia VII, Alpar utca 5 1/321-2805. Small place by the Garay tér market hall with nothing Greek about it except the decor: the new management have concentrated purely on the food, which they serve up in a quirky, personable manner. There is no menu, just a choice of three to six-course meals for up to just 6000Ft, and the rest you leave to them. The dishes are small but the combinations are fascinating and delicious, while wines are spectacular, though not cheap: you can buy by the bottle or ask for a glass of wine to accompany each course. The service is very laid-back – a six-course meal may end up stretching to eight, and can take four hours or more, though lunches are quicker. Booking absolutely essential.