Budapest Guide
Terézváros and Erzsébetváros
Drinking
1 Castro Bistro VII, Madách tér 3. This smoky bar with a misleadingly Cuban name has moved to a new location very close to Deák tér. Good music, beer and Serbian food attract a mixed crowd of Hungarians and foreigners. Free wi-fi. Opening time: Mon– Thurs 10am– midnight, Fri 10am–1am, Sat noon–1am, Sun 2pm– midnight
2 Ellátó VII, Klauzál tér 2. Set up in 2007 and an instant success, its dilapidated look of bare bricks and old paintwork gives it a relaxed feel. The kitchen serves up decent retro dishes, here too with a strong Serbian flavour. Opening time: Mon– Wed noon–2am, Thurs– Fri noon –4am, Sat– Sun 5pm–4am
3 Gül Baba Szeráj VI, Paulay Ede utca 55. Furnished with Turkish kelims, cushions and lamps, with shishas, wine-tasting nights with food (3500Ft) and muted reggae music, this is a nice place to chill out and talk. Opening time: Daily 10am– midnight
4 Katapult VII, Dohány utca 1. Small, popular and very red bar opposite the big synagogue. Opening time: Mon– Sat 10am–2am, Sun 2pm– midnight
5 
Kiadó VI, Jókai tér 3. This popular new bar is across Andrássy út from the places around Liszt Ferenc tér, but feels as though it's in another city – much more laid back than its neighbours, with few pretensions. The ground floor rooms are open all day from 10am, breakfast and snacks are served during the day; the other door to the right leads downstairs to a cosy bar with sofas, open from 5pm. Both upstairs and downstairs are divided into smaller intimate sections, giving the place a friendly feel. Opening time: Open daily till 1am
6 Moyo VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 10 
www.moyocafe.hu . One of the smaller bars on the north side of this popular partying square that distinguishes itself from its bigger rivals by its friendly staff and good food. Outside seating, too. Opening time: Daily 11am– midnight
7 Old Man's Music Pub VII, Akácfa utca 13 www.oldmans.hu . Large, popular joint near Blaha Lujza tér, with live local bands every evening 9–11pm. Opening time: Daily 3pm– dawn
8 Piaf VI, Nagymezo utca 25. This old favourite is basically a small ground-floor bar and cellar frequented by the odd Hungarian film star and lots of wannabes, with occasional jazz or rock live sets. Entry 800Ft. Opening time: Daily 10pm–6am
9 Pótkulcs VI, Csengery utca 65b www.potkulcs.hu . There's no sign on the small metal door from the street at 65b, but go through and you'll find yourself in a shaded yard, with the bar straight ahead, and a room with sofas and table football off to the left. The "Spare Key" is a laid-back place that attracts a good range of visitors, and the music is excellent too, ranging from klezmer and Roma bands to underground, folk and jazz. Gets very smoky in winter, but has outside seating when it gets warmer. Opening time: Mon– Wed & Sun 5pm–1.30am, Thurs– Sat 5pm–2.30am
10 Sark VII, Klauzál tér 14. Small, heaving bar, decorated with massive murals. DJs and good live music (world/klezmer/Roma) downstairs from Sept– May. From June– Sept much of the action moves to the Sark kert at the southern tip of Margit-sziget – ask at the bar for directions. Opening time: Daily noon–3am
11 Sirály VI, Király utca 50 www.siraly.co.hu . The "Seagull" bar is located in one of those unoccupied buildings that could at any time be closed down, part of an arty cultural centre which seems to rev up the bohemian, lefty feel. Regular jazz and theatre downstairs. Opening time: Daily 10am– midnight
12 Sixtus VII, Nagy Diófa utca 26. The "Sistine Chapel" has long been a smoky favourite with sections of the expat community, but has a good local following, too. It's a cosy place, with just two rooms. Opening time: Mon– Fri 5pm–2am, Sat 8am–2am
13 Szimplakert VII, Kazinczy utca 14 www.szimpla.hu . One of the oldest kert bars, spilling over from room to room and with good music, regular film showings (600Ft) in the garden and free wi-fi access (noon–7pm). It has become a standard stop for stag parties, and the main courtyard is packed and noisy at night from mid-May onwards, though it makes a delightful and quiet refuge by day. Several bars (one for cocktails) and bicycle storage. Opening time: Daily noon– midnight
14 Szóda VII, Wesselényi utca 18 www.szoda.com . Busy bar with a retro look behind the main synagogue, with pleasantly laid-back music from the DJs and inexpensive drinks; they also serve food and have free wi-fi access. Opening time: Mon– Fri 9am– midnight, Sat & Sun 2pm– midnight or later
15 Vian VI, Liszt Ferenc tér 11. Less pretentious than the others on this posiest of squares, with pleasant staff, a relaxed atmosphere and good food. Free wi-fi access. Opening time: Daily 9am– midnight