Budapest Guide
Óbuda and Margit-sziget
Eating
1 Kéhli III, Mókus utca 22 
1/368-0613 
www.kehli.hu One hundred years ago this was the favourite haunt of one of Hungary's great gourmands, the turn-of-the-century writer Gyula Krúdy, and today the Kéhli still serves the dishes he loved, such as beef soup with bone marrow on garlic toast (a starter, for 2000Ft). Set in one of the few old buildings in Óbuda to survive the 1960s planning blitz, it's a big place and does attract large groups, but there are plenty of local regulars, too. Most main courses are 3000–4000Ft, and portions are generous; you eat your fill to the accompaniment of a lively Hungarian Gypsy band (from 8pm). Opening time: Daily noon– midnight
2 Kerék III, Bécsi út 103 1/250-4261. There is an unchanging feel to the "Wheel", a small place just near the amphitheatre in southern Óbuda. It serves traditional Hungarian food, such as bableves füstölt csülökkel (bean soup with smoked pork knuckle; 750Ft) and vasi pecsenye (pork marinated in garlic and milk; 1400Ft) at very reasonable prices. No haute cuisine here, just locals out for a meal. Srámli (accordion) music is provided by a couple of old musicians (Mon– Sat from 6pm), and there's outside seating in summer. Opening time: Daily noon–11pm
3 Kisbuda Gyöngye III, Kenyeres utca 34 1/368-6402 Excellent Hungarian food in the elegant surroundings of the "Pearl of Little Buda", which is filled with furniture from a fin-de-siècle well-to-do Budapest home. Gentle piano music and small courtyard at the back. Booking essential. Mains 2300–4000Ft. Opening time: Daily noon– midnight