Budapest Guide
Lipótváros and Újlipótváros
St Stephen's Basilica
Opening time: Mon– Fri 9am–5.15pm & 7–7.30pm, Sat 9am–1pm & 7–7.30pm, Sun 1–5pm
Price: Free
Address: Szent István tér
St Stephen's Basilica (Szent István-Bazilika) took so long to build that Budapestis once joked, when borrowing money, "I'll pay you back when the basilica is finished". Work began in 1851 under the supervision of József Hild, continued after his death under Miklós Ybl, and was finally completed by Joseph Krauser in 1905. At the inaugural ceremony Emperor Franz Josef was seen to glance anxiously at the dome, whose collapse during a storm in 1868 had set progress back. At 96m, it is exactly the same height as the dome of the Parliament building – both allude to the putative date of the Magyars' arrival in Hungary (896 AD). After recent restoration work that seemed to take as long as the original construction, the Basilica looks fabulous today. It is best visited when the interior is open for sightseeing, as its beauty lies in the carvings, frescoes and chapels, the variegated marble, gilded stucco and bronze mouldings, and the splendid organ above the doorway.
In the second chapel to the right is a painting of King Stephen offering the Crown of Hungary to the Virgin, while a statue of him haloed as a saint (but with a sword at his side) forms the centrepiece of the altar. In a chapel (April– Sept Mon– Fri 9.30am–4.30pm, Sun 1–4.30pm; Oct– March Mon– Fri 10am–4pm, Sun 1–4.30pm; free) to the left at the back is the gnarled mummified hand of St Stephen, Hungary's holiest relic. The Szent Jobb (literally, "holy right") is paraded with great pomp through the surrounding streets on August 20, the anniversary of his death, but at other times you can see it in the chapel by inserting 100Ft to illuminate the casket.
Although the treasury (same hours; 400Ft) is somewhat paltry, you shouldn't miss the so-called Panorama Tower (daily: April– May 10am–4pm; June– Aug 9.30am–6.30pm; Sept– Oct 10am–7.30pm; 500Ft), reached by a lift to the base of the cupola, 65m up, and then another lift or a spiral stairway (mind your head on the joists) to the external walkway, which offers a grand view over the city, as well as the option of walking back down 302 stone steps. Mass is held in the basilica on weekdays (7am, 8am & 6pm) and Sundays (8am, 9am, 10am, noon, 6pm & 7.30pm).