Budapest Guide
Lipótváros and Újlipótváros
Eating
1 
Café Kör V, Sas utca 17 
1/311-0053 
www.cafekor.com . Buzzy place near the basilica, with a very relaxed feel and English-speaking staff. Its wines and grilled meats are excellent, as are the salads, and the specials of the day (displayed on a board) are recommended – the roasted pike-perch in garlic is always a favourite. Main courses 2000–4000Ft. The only downside to the intimacy of the place is that smoking is allowed throughout. Booking essential. No credit cards. Opening time: Mon– Sat 10am–10pm
2 Csarnok V, Hold utca 11 1/269-4906. Good, down-to-earth Hungarian restaurant that used to serve the workers at the market a few doors along; the clientele is now more upmarket, but its unpretentious feel has been preserved. Specialities are mutton, lamb and bone marrow dishes from 1400Ft upwards, and there are also traditional dishes such as pacal (tripe). Opening time: Mon– Fri 9am–11pm
3 Firkász XIII, Tátra utca 18 1/450-1118. Done up like a journalists' haunt from the turn of the last century, Firkász serves decent traditional Hungarian food, with creamed veg stews and the like at reasonable prices – mains from 2000Ft. Opening time: Daily noon– midnight
4 Govinda V, Vigyázó Ferenc utca 4 1/473-1310. Hare Krishna vegetarian restaurant serving good, inexpensive set meals (1800Ft for a large plate), accompanied by the whiff of soporific incense. Opening time: Mon– Fri 11.30am–8pm, Sat noon–9pm
5 Kispozsonyi XIII, Pozsonyi út 18. Atmospheric (and smoky) local joint with filling Hungarian dishes; its popularity means you may have to wait for a table. The small terrace affords an escape from the fumes in the summer. Mains 1000–1800Ft. Opening time: Daily 10am– midnight
6 Lou Lou V, Vigyázó Ferenc utca 4 1/312-4505 www.loulourestaurant.com . A leading contender for Budapest's first Michelin star, and (naturally) expensive. The select French-influenced menu is strong on duck, liver and fish, accompanied by top Hungarian wines. Presentation is excellent, as is the service. Non-smoking section. Mains from 4700Ft, lunch menus 4900Ft. Opening time: Mon– Fri noon–3pm & 7–11pm, Sat 7–11pm
7 Okay Italia XIII, Szent István körút 20. A relaxed, lively restaurant that's an old favourite with expats and locals alike, serving up very good pasta and pizza at reasonable prices. Opening time: Daily noon– midnight
8 Pomo D'Oro V, Arany János utca 9 1/302-6473 www.pomodorobudapest.com . A large, rustic Italian restaurant at the river end of this street, where the interior is split into many different levels, giving it a cosy feel. The woodburning oven turns out excellent pizzas from 1400Ft, while mains are from 1900Ft. A wide range of Italian wines, and some Hungarian too, though all are quite pricey. They serve a small portion – kisadag – for children and will provide pencils and paper on request. The deli next door also has seating and serves pasta dishes from 1300Ft. Opening time: Daily noon– midnight
9 Via Luna V, Nagysándor József utca 1 1/312-8058. Popular Italian-style restaurant – its name referring to the neighbouring Hold (moon) utca – close to Arany János utca metro station, serving pizzas (from 1400Ft) and good, filling salads. Opening time: Daily noon–11.30pm
10 Bedő Ház V, Honvéd utca 3. This restored Art Nouveau gem of a building just north of Szabadság tér is a delightful spot for a coffee break. Opening time: Mon– Fri 8am–6pm, Sat 9am–6pm
11 Europa V, Szent István körút 7. Excellent cakes at this popular coffee house near the Margit híd. Opening time: Daily 9am–10pm, May– Oct till 11pm
12 Sport V, Bank utca 5. Seventies furniture and service and good cakes in this fine example of an ancien-régime café. Opening time: Mon– Fri 9am–5pm
13 Szalai V, Balassi Bálint utca 4. Old-style cake shop, one of the few remaining in Budapest, serving pastries baked on the premises. Beneath its large gilt-framed mirrors are a few tables where the regulars watch the world pass by. Opening time: Daily except Tues 9am–7pm, Nov– April closed Mon