Greece Guide
Western Greece
Epirus (Ípiros in modern Greek) has one of the strongest regional identities in mainland Greece, thanks to the unrelentingly rugged peaks, forested ravines and turbulent rivers of the Píndhos (Pindus) range. The climate is wet almost everywhere, much of the year, with thundery squalls bouncing off lower coastal ranges to dissipate a short distance offshore. These mountains have always protected Epirus from outside interference, securing it a large measure of autonomy even under Ottoman rule.
Because of this remoteness, the region was peripheral to ancient Greek culture; there are just a handful of significant archeological sites. At Dodona, the sanctuary of the oracle includes a spectacular Classical theatre; Kassope and Nikopolis, near Préveza, are more conventional ancient cities. More recently, Lord Byron was the region's greatest publicist. He passed through in 1809 when tyrannical local ruler Ali Pasha was at the height of his power, and the poet's tales of intrigue and brigandage sent a shiver down romantic Western spines. Byron went on to distinguish himself in southerly Étolo-Akarnanía by supplying and training troops for the Greek War of Independence, and by dying during it at Mesolóngi.
As stated, the mountains provide much of the attraction of Epirus. Their physical beauty is stunning, with limestone peaks and dense forest contrasting with stone-built villages and arched packhorse bridges. The most accessible and rewarding walker's target is Zagóri, particularly the magnificent Víkos and Aóös gorges, while mounts Gamíla and Smólikas provide several days of serious trekking. Above the villages, a few Latinate-speaking Vlach and Grecophone Sarakatsan transhumant shepherds still bring their sheep to the alpine pastures in summer, though owing to changed EU subsidy policies, unattended cattle are now more common. The wild fauna is impressive: there's good bird-watching, increasing numbers of wolves, plus legally protected brown bears who leave footprints in riverside mud.
Roughly halfway between Ioánnina and the Metéora stands Métsovo, the easiest venue for a taste of mountain life, albeit with a fair dose of commercialization. The two urban attractions are characterful Ioánnina, Ali Pasha's capital with its fortress, island and lake, and Árta, prettily set and blessed with a fine group of Byzantine churches and monasteries.
The coast, in both Epirus and Étolo-Akarnanía just south, is generally low-key, with sandy, not overly spoilt beaches between Igoumenítsa – the main ferry terminal for Corfu and Italy – and sleepy Préveza, boosted by proximity to those beaches and its airport. In between lies photogenic Párga, the main – often oversubscribed – Epirot resort.
Highlights
1 Ioánnina The Ottoman citadel, lakefront and island associated with locally infamous hero/villain Ali Pasha.
2 Zagóri Stone-built mansions and villages set in rugged mountain scenery.
3 The Víkos Gorge One of the longest in Europe and a worthy rival to its Cretan counterpart.
4 Karavostási Perhaps the best of many excellent beaches on Thesprotía's coast from Igoumenítsa to Préveza.