Greece Guide
The Ionian Islands
The six Ionian islands, shepherding their satellites down the west coast of the mainland, float on the haze of the Ionian sea, their green, even lush, silhouettes coming as a shock to those more used to the stark outlines of the Aegean. The fertility of the land is a direct result of the heavy rains that sweep over the archipelago – and especially Corfu – from October to May, so if you visit at this time, come prepared. `
The islands were the Homeric realm of Odysseus, centred on Ithaca, (modern Itháki) and here alone of all modern Greek territory (except for Lefkádha) the Ottomans never held sway. After the fall of Byzantium, possession passed to the Venetians and the islands became a keystone in Venice's maritime empire from 1386 until its collapse in 1797. On Corfu, the Venetian legacy is mixed with that of the British, who imposed a military "protectorate" over the Ionian islands at the close of the Napoleonic Wars.
Today, tourism is the dominating influence, especially on Corfu (Kérkyra), which was one of the first Greek islands established on the package-holiday circuit, though it does not get as swamped as in the past. The southern half of Zákynthos (Zante) – which with Corfu has the Ionians' most oversubscribed beaches – has also gone down the same tourist path, but elsewhere the island's pace is a lot less intense. Little Paxí lacks the water to support large-scale hotels and has limited facilities tucked into just three villages. Perhaps the most rewarding trio for island-hopping are Kefaloniá, Itháki and Lefkádha.
Highlights
1 Kérkyra (Corfu) Town Venetian fortresses, beautiful churches, fine museums and appealing architecture.
2 Andípaxi Some of the Ionian's best swimming and snorkelling is on offer at the exquisite beaches of Paxí's little sister.
3 Lefkádha's west coast The archipelago's finest beaches run from Áï Nikítas down to Pórto Katsíki.
4 Melissáni Cave, Kefaloniá See dappled sunlight on the water amid rock formations on a boat trip inside this once-enclosed underwater cave.
5 Mount Énos, Kefaloniá The highest point in the Ionians has stunning vistas of sea and distant land.
6 Itháki's Homeric sites Relive the myths on Odysseus's island.