Greece Guide
The Dodecanese
The furthest island group from the Greek mainland, the Dodecanese (Dhodhekánisos) lie against the Turkish coast – some almost within hailing distance of Anatolia. Because of their strategic position, these islands have a turbulent history: they were the scene of ferocious battles between German and British forces in 1943–44, and were only finally included in the modern Greek state in 1948 after centuries of rule by Crusaders, Ottomans and Italians. Although relations between Greece and Turkey are currently at their best ever, the Greek military retains numerous military bases and smaller watch-points that multiplied after the 1996 incident over the disputed double islet of Ímia.
Whatever the rigours of the various occupations, their legacy includes a wonderful blend of architectural styles and cultures; almost every island has Classical remains, a Crusaders' castle, a clutch of vernacular villages and whimsical or grandiose public buildings. For these last the Italians, who held the Dodecanese from 1912 to 1943, are responsible. In their determination to turn them into a showplace for Fascism they undertook ambitious public works, excavations and reconstruction; if historical accuracy was often sacrificed on the altar of visual propaganda, only an expert is likely to complain.
The largest islands in the group are connected by regular ferries and catamarans, as well as flights; only Kastellórizo and Tílos are hard to reach. Rhodes is the main transport hub, with connections for Crete, the northeastern Aegean, the Cyclades and the mainland also. Kálymnos, with a useful small ferry based there, is an important secondary terminus, as is Kós, the fulcrum for various hydrofoil services, and Pátmos, home base for one of two local catamarans, which conveniently supplement the larger ferries calling at uncivil hours.
Highlights
1 Ródhos Old Town Superbly preserved medieval streets, inextricably linked with the Knights of Saint John.
2 Lindos Acropolis, Rhodes A pleasing blend of ancient and medieval culture, with great views over the town and coast.
3 Thárri monastery, Rhodes Superb Byzantine frescoes in the oldest religious foundation on the island.
4 Sými Hike or bike the forested backcountry to frescoed medieval chapels.
5 Volcano at Níssyros The craters of the dormant volcano still hiccup, with the most recent activity in 1933.
6 Hóra, Astypálea The windswept island "capital", wrapped around a beautiful Venetian kástro, perches dramatically above the sea.
7 Pátmos The Hóra, a fortified monastery at its heart, is the most atmospheric village in this archipelago.