Germany Guide
The Alps and eastern Bavaria
All the images that foreigners think most typically Bavarian accumulate in profusion in the region south of Munich, where "Mad" King Ludwig's palaces preside over dramatically scenic alpine settings. Here, onion-domed church towers rise above brilliant green meadows, impossibly blue lakes fringe dark forests and the sparkling snow-capped peaks of the Bavarian Alps define the southern horizon. And it doesn't disappoint close up: villages are tourist-brochure quaint, while traditional Tracht is by no means the fancy dress it can sometimes seem in Munich, and you'll see Dirndls or Lederhosen quite often. Politically and socially, this is Bavaria at its most Catholic and conservative, anchored to its time-honoured lifestyles, crafts and cultural rituals, though sheer numbers of visitors nowadays add a certain cosmopolitan sheen, particularly to major resorts such as Füssen or Garmisch-Partenkirchen, nestling at the foot of Germany's highest mountain, the Zugspitze. In the summer, the region's many lakes provide a secondary focus for visitors, above all for swimming and sailing – notably on Chiemsee, the so-called Bavarian Sea. But the attractions aren't limited to scenic wonders. Chiemsee also boasts King Ludwig II's attempt to re-create the palace of Versailles at Schloss Herrenchiemsee, while thousands flock to see his famous castle of Neuschwanstein – perhaps the most familiar of all Bavarian images. Oberammergau is home not only to the celebrated Passion Play but to some of the most remarkable examples of Bavarian facade-painting, or Lüftmalerei. Bavarian Rococo reaches weightless perfection in the region known as the Pfaffenwinkel at the UNESCO-listed Wieskirche at Steingaden.
Not all the region's monuments are so light-hearted, however, for Obersalzberg above the lively mountain resort of Berchtesgaden preserves ominous reminders of Hitler and the crimes of his regime. Yet even here, the sheer scenic magnificence of the Bavarian Alps is hard to ignore.
Eastern Bavaria could scarcely be more different: in place of a wall of mountains, it is defined by one of the great cultural and trading thoroughfares of Central Europe, the River Danube. Consequently its ancient cities – notably the perfectly preserved, former imperial free city of Regensburg and the prince-bishopric of Passau – bear the legacy of Rome and the influence of Italy with considerable grace. Only along its eastern boundary with the Czech Republic do natural wonders again triumph over cultural richness, in the vast, relatively sparsely populated forests of the Bayerischer Wald (Bavarian Forest).
Highlights
1 Mad Ludwig's palaces Enter the extravagant fantasy world of "Mad" King Ludwig II at Neuschwanstein, Linderhof or Herrenchiemsee.
2 The Wieskirche A vision of heaven inspired by a tearful statue of Christ, the Wieskirche is a masterpiece of Bavarian Rococo.
3 Lüftmalerei in Oberammergau A distinctive Bavarian artform reaches its charming high-point on the building facades of this pretty mountain village.
4 Skiing at Garmisch-Partenkirchen Whether enjoying the views from the Zugspitze's high-altitude pistes or cutting a dash on the Kandahar run, skiing at Germany's biggest winter resort is a memorable experience.
5 The Eagle's Nest, Berchtesgaden Hitler hardly used it, but you're sure to enjoy the breathtaking views from his famous mountain eyrie.
6 Regensburg Gothic tower houses are the distinctive feature of one of Central Europe‘s best preserved medieval cities.
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