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France Guide

The Massif Central

    The Massif Central takes up a huge portion of the centre of France, but only a handful of towns have gained a foothold in its rugged terrain. Thickly forested and sliced by numerous rivers and lakes, these once volcanic uplands are geologically the oldest part of France and culturally one of the most firmly rooted in the past. Industry and tourism have made few inroads here, and the people remain rural and somewhat taciturn, with an enduring sense of regional identity.

    Many of France's greatest rivers rise in the Massif Central: the Dordogne in the Monts-Dore, the Loire on the slopes of the Gerbier de Jonc in the east, and in the Cévennes the Lot and the Tarn. It is these last two rivers which create the distinctive character of the southern parts of the Massif Central, dividing and defining the special landscapes of the causses, or limestone plateaux, with their stupendous gorges. This is territory tailor-made for walkers and lovers of the outdoors, and everywhere you go tourist offices will supply ideas and routes for walks and bike rides.

    Highlights

    1 Puy de Dôme Four hundred metres above Clermont-Ferrand, this long-extinct volcano offers staggering vistas of the Massif Central.

    2 Conques Modern pilgrims trek to this monastery town, once an important way-station on the medieval Chemin de St-Jacques, for the church's Romanesque facade and treasury of early medieval reliquaries.

    3 Cirque de Navacelles Cutting 150m down into the limestone causse, the River Vis doubles back on itself, leaving a tiny island that was capped centuries ago by a farming hamlet.

    4 Gorges de l'Ardèche From the natural bridge at Pont d'Arc, the rushing Ardèche has carved out a dramatic descent through wooded and cave-riddled cliffs.