France Guide
The Loire
The Loire has a justifiable reputation as one of the greatest, grandest and most striking rivers anywhere in Europe. In its most characteristic stretch, from the hills of Sancerre to the city of Angers, it flows past an extraordinary parade of castles, palaces and fine mansions; unsurprisingly, when it came to choosing which should be awarded the title of World Heritage Site, UNESCO just bestowed the label on the entire valley. Although the most striking feature is the beautiful views, there are simpler pleasures, such as the outstanding food and drink and the noticeably gentler pace of life.
The Loire itself is often called the last wild river in France, mostly because unpredictable currents and shallow water brought an end to commercial river traffic as soon as the railways arrived, and the many quays remain largely forgotten, except by the occasional tour boat. The river's wildness also takes shape in dramatic floods, but for most of the year it meanders gently past its shifting sandbanks, shaded by reeds and willows, and punctuated by long, sandy islands beloved by birds.
Highlights
1 Stained glass at Bourges cathedral Some of France's finest stained-glass windows are preserved in Bourges' extravagant Gothic cathedral.
2 Château de Chenonceau The most graceful of all the Loire châteaux bridges the River Cher.
3 Château de Blois An epic and brilliantly conceived building, and a must-visit for anyone.
4 Amboise Beautiful, archetypal Loire Valley town, and a brilliant base for an exploration of the outlying regions.
5 The gardens at Villandry These superb gardens are home to allegorical Renaissance hedge-work.
6 The Tapestry of the Apocalypse Dramatically displayed in Angers' half-ruined château, this is an astonishingly well-preserved piece of medieval doom-mongering.
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