Finland Guide
Ostrobothnia, Kainuu and Lapland
The Arctic North
Squeezed inland by the northern tip of Norway, Finland's Arctic North mixes undulating forests, lakes and rivers with tracts of desolate upland that rise high above the treeline. In these uncompromising latitudes, a fair number of the indigenous Sámi population still herd their reindeer and maintain their traditions despite serious threats from a number of sources, including modernization, tourism and – most dramatically – the fallout from Chernobyl. With the exception of attractions like reindeer farms and appearances at a few annual festivals, the Sámi tend to remain far from the prying eyes of visitors, though their angular lávvus, kotas and tipis (tents), wreathed in reindeer antlers, skins and all sorts of Arctic ornaments, are to be found along the region's main roads during the summer, in what can seem a rather crass and commercially inspired conformity. This is intended to appeal to the wallets of the thousands of motorists who use the Arctic Highway, the E75/4, the fastest approach to the Nordkapp. But don't let this put you off: the Arctic wilderness is a ready escape, its stark and often haunting landscapes easily accessible.
Two main roads lead north from Rovaniemi: the Arctic Highway, which services the northeast, linking the communities of Sodankylä, Ivalo, Inari and Utsjoki; and Route 79/E8, which crosses the northwest, connecting Muonio and Kilpisjärvi. Inari and Sodankylä are the only settlements worth a second look, but the landscape which surrounds the Arctic North's minuscule communities will hold your gaze for much longer – provided you take the trouble to do at least some hiking. There's also plenty of outdoor adventure here for those who seek it – dog-sledging, skiing and snowmobiling are the most popular diversions – though none of it comes cheap.
Hiking in the Arctic North
The best way to experience the Arctic North is to get off the bus and explore slowly, which means on foot. The rewards for making the physical effort are manifold. There's a tremendous feeling of space here, and the wild and inhospitable terrain acquires a near-magical quality when illuminated by the constant daylight of the summer months (the only time of year when hiking is feasible).
Many graded hiking routes cover the more interesting areas; most of the more exhilarating are distributed among the region's four national parks: Pyhä-Luosto, southeast of Sodankylä; Urho Kekkonen and Lemmenjoki, further north off the Arctic Highway; and Pallas-Yllästunturi, near Muonio in the northwest. There are challenges aplenty for experienced hikers, though novices need have nothing to fear provided basic common sense is employed. The more popular hikes can become very busy and many people find this an intrusion into their contemplation of the natural spectacle – others enjoy the camaraderie. If you're seeking solitude you'll find it, but you'll need at least the company of a reliable compass, a good-quality tent and emergency supplies.
We've included broad introductions to the major hikes throughout this chapter, and described the type of terrain that you'll find on them. Bear in mind that, though, that these aren't definitive accounts, as conditions and details often change at short notice; always gather the latest information from the nearest tourist centre or park information office. Most tourist offices hand out free trail descriptions in English and also sell excellent 1:10000 hiking maps. For copious information on hiking in Finland, visit the Finnish Forest Service's comprehensive, expertly written English-language website, 
www.outdoors.fi .