Finland Guide
Ostrobothnia, Kainuu and Lapland
Kuusamo
KUUSAMO, 211km northeast of Oulu, is reached by daily express buses from Oulu, plus regular services from Rovaniemi. For full details of local hiking and accommodation, and the many summer events that bring some life to the town, call in at the Karhuntassu Tourist & Nature Centre, Torangintaival 2 (early May to early Aug daily 9am–5pm; early Aug to mid-Sept Mon– Fri 9am–5pm; 
03/0650 2540 or 08/860 0200, 
www.kuusamo.fi ) and pick up both Summer Info and Ruka News, small handbooks which offer useful information about things to do in and around Kuusamo.
For accommodation, try the well-kept, independently run youth hostel, across the street from the bus station at Kitkantie 35 ( 04/08 608 715, edu.kuusamo.fi/kansanopisto ; doubles Price: Under €25, dorms €11), though you must book in advance and arrive between 8am and 3.45pm Monday to Friday, as there's no reception at other times. Alternatively, the soulless Sokos Hotel Kuusamo, Kirkkotie 23 ( 08/859 20, www.sokoshotels.fi ; Price: €101-125), is a ten-minute walk from the centre of town at the junction with Ouluntie; it overlooks the Toranki lake, and has an exceptionally large indoor swimming pool. Before setting out hiking, the best places in town to eat and drink are Martina's and the adjoining Parnell's Irish Bar at Ouluntie 3 – fried chicken, chips, salad and a beer will cost around €15. Later in the evening, anyone still standing heads to Fiona, Ouluntie 7.
Kuusamo is the starting point for the Karhunkierros Trail (also known as the Kuusamo Bear Circuit); one of the most popular hiking routes in Finland, it's a seventy-kilometre trek weaving over the summit of Rukatunturi, dipping into canyons and across slender log suspension bridges over thrashing rapids. From Kuusamo, take the bus to Ristikallio for the start of the hike.