Finland Guide
Ostrobothnia, Kainuu and Lapland
Kuhmo
With belts of forests, hills and lakes, and numerous nature walks and hikes within easy reach, KUHMO makes a fine base for exploring the countryside. The terrain is in some ways less dramatic than that further north, but then again it's also far less crowded.
You can get details of hiking routes, maps and other practical information from the tourist office, Kainuuntie 126 (June– Aug daily 8am–6pm; Sept– May Mon– Fri 8am–6pm, Sat 10am–4pm; 
0440/755 500, 
www.kuhmo.fi ). The tourist office can also explain how best to reach the Kalevala Village on the outskirts of the town. This re-creation of a wooden Karelian village provides an illuminating account of traditional building methods, plus it's a good excuse to indulge in some pricey souvenirs – and interesting handicrafts – which are sold to the many genuine Karelians who visit. It's also the only thing close to Kuhmo of appeal to non-hikers.
Budget accommodation options in Kuhmo include several boarding houses, the best-established of which is the Matkustajakoti Uljaska, Koulukatu 38 ( 08/655 0545; Price: €51-75). Near the tourist office, Hotelli Kainuu, Kainuutie 84, ( 08/655 1711, www.hotellikainuu.com ; Price: €76-100), is the only hotel option in town, but Hotel Kalevala, 3km from the centre ( 08/655 4100, www.hotellikalevala.fi ; Price: €101-125), is a better bet, with clean, modern room set on a lake with great views; it also rents out canoes and bikes. The town campsite ( 04/4075 5500; June– Aug) is 4km from the centre along Koulukatu.