Finland Guide
Ostrobothnia, Kainuu and Lapland
Between them, these three regions take up nearly two-thirds of Finland, but unlike the populous south or the more industrialized sections of the Lake Region, they're predominantly rural, with small and widely separated communities. Despite this – or perhaps because of it – each region has a very individual flavour. Living along the coast of Ostrobothnia are most of the country's Swedish-speaking Finland-Swedes, a small subsection of the national population whose culture differs from that of both Swedes and Finns. Towns hereabouts are known as often by their Swedish names as by their Finnish, while their distance from the ravages of World War II enabled them to retain some of their old wooden architecture. Much of the region's affluence stems from its flat and fertile farmlands, although the coastal area's fortunes are changing as the once-numerous ferry connections from Sweden – the "booze cruises" – have all but gone now that European law has done away with duty-free alcohol, the main reason for the ferries' existence; today, Vaasa is the area's only maritime entry point.
Kainuu is the thickly forested, thinly populated heart of Finland. It's traditionally peasant land – something perhaps felt more strongly here than anywhere else in the country – and over recent decades has suffered a severe economic decline as wealth has become concentrated in the south. There's still a surprising level of poverty in some parts, although tourism is beginning to help alleviate this.
Lapland is one of the most thrilling places to hike in the world. Rovaniemi, the main stopover en route, is useful mainly for its transport connections and information on the area beyond. Beyond Rovaniemi, two roads lead into the Arctic North. Here you'll find wide open spaces that are great for guided and solo treks through gold-panning country and along the edges of mountain chains which continue far into Sweden and Norway. The whole region is home to several thousand Sámi, who've lived in harmony with this special, often harsh environment for millennia. Discovering their culture and way of life can be as exciting as experiencing the Arctic North itself.