Finland Guide
Helsinki and the south
Turku Castle
Opening time: Mid-Jan to mid-April & late Sept to Nov Tues & Thurs– Fri 10am–3pm, Wed and Sat & Sun 10am–6pm; mid-April to late Sept daily 10am–6pm; Dec Tues– Fri 10am–3pm & Sat 10am–5pm
Price: €7
Website: www.nba.fi/en/turku_castle
Address: Western end of Linnankatu
The major marker of Turku's many years is the relatively featureless, piebald exterior of Turku Castle. Fight any dismay, though, since the compact cobbled courtyards, maze-like corridors and darkened staircases of the interior provide a good place to wander – and to dwell on the fact that this was the seat of the government of the country for centuries, as well as that much of Finland's (and a significant portion of Sweden's) medieval history took shape within these walls. Unless you're an expert on the period, you'll get a migraine trying to figure out the importance of everything that's here, and it's a sensible idea to buy one of the guide leaflets on sale at the entrance – you can safely give the guided tour a miss.
The castle probably went up sometime around 1280, when the first bishop arrived from Sweden; gradual expansion through the following years accounts for the patchwork effect of its architecture – and the bewildering array of finds, rooms and displays. The majority of the fortification took place during the turbulent sixteenth century, instigated by Swedish ruler Gustavus Vasa for the protection of his son, whom he made Duke Johan, the first Duke of Finland. Johan pursued a lavish court life but exceeded his powers in attacking Livonia and was sentenced to death by the Stockholm Diet. Swedish efforts to seize Johan were successful only after a three-week siege, and he was removed to Stockholm. The subsequent decision by the unbalanced Erik XIV to release Johan resulted not only in Johan becoming king himself, but also in poor Erik being imprisoned here – albeit with a full quota of servants and the best food and wine. The bare cell he occupied for a few weeks contrasts strongly with the splendour from Johan's time, offering a cool reminder of shifting fortunes. There's a gloomy nineteenth-century painting here, by Erik Johan Löfgren, of Erik with his head on the lap of his queen (Catharine Månsdotter), while the lady's eyes look askance to heaven.