Finland Guide
Helsinki and the south
The Atheneum Art Museum
Opening time: Tues & Fri 9am–6pm, Wed & Thurs 9am–8pm, Sat & Sun 11am–5pm
Price: €6, €8 for special exhibitions
Chief among the large collection of Finnish paintings at the Atheneum is the stirring selection of works from the late nineteenth century, the so-called Golden Age of Finnish painting, when the spirit of nationalism was surging through the country and the movement towards independence gaining strength; indeed, the art of the period was a contributing factor in the growing awareness of Finnish culture, both inside and outside the country. Among the prime names of this era were Akseli Gallen-Kallela and Albert Edelfelt, particularly the former, who translated many of the mythic scenes of the Kalevala onto canvas – about a half-dozen of them are on display here, the rest spread around at museums all over Finland and abroad. Slightly later came Juho Rissanen with his moody and evocative studies of peasant life, and Hugo Simberg, responsible for the eerie Death and the Peasant and the powerful triptych Boy Carrying a Garland. Cast an eye, too, over the works of Helene Schjerfbeck, for a long time one of the country's most underrated artists but now enjoying an upsurge in popularity – and collectability. Among the best examples of pure Finnish landscape are the works of Pekka Halonen: Pioneers in Karelia is typical, with soft curves expressively denoting natural scenes.
The first floor holds a series of installations by innovative contemporary local artists, but the best of the Finnish art is assembled on the floors above: the second floor contains the bulk of the museum's Golden Age works, while the third floor houses the provocative expressionism of Tyko Sallinen and the November Group, most active around 1917, as well as some token foreign masters – a couple of large Munchs, a Van Gogh, a Chagall and a few Cézannes. Before you leave, check out the excellent art bookshop on the ground floor.