England Guide
Hampshire, Dorset and Wiltshire
The distant past is perhaps more tangible in Hampshire, Dorset and Wiltshire than in any other part of England. Predominantly rural, these three counties overlap substantially with the ancient kingdom of Wessex, but many earlier civilizations have also left their stamp. The chalky uplands of Wiltshire boast several of Europe's greatest Neolithic sites, including Stonehenge and Avebury, while in Dorset you'll find Maiden Castle, the most striking Iron Age hill fort in the country, just outside Dorchester, a town more closely associated with the novels of Thomas Hardy and his distinctively gloomy vision of Wessex.
None of the landscapes of this region could be described as grand or wild, but the countryside is consistently seductive, not least the crumbling fossil-bearing cliffs around Lyme Regis and the managed woodlands of the New Forest. Its towns are also generally modest and slow-paced, with the notable exception of Portsmouth, a great maritime base and departure point for the more genteel pleasures of the Isle of Wight. The two great cathedral cities in these parts, Salisbury and Winchester, and the seaside resort of Bournemouth see most tourist traffic, but you don't have to wander far off the beaten track to encounter medieval churches, manor houses and unspoilt country inns a-plenty.
Highlights
1 Cowes Week, Isle of Wight This yachting jamboree draws thousands, infecting even the staunchest landlubbers.
2 Wykeham Arms, Winchester Ancient tavern serving gourmet-standard food alongside the real ales.
3 The New Forest William the Conqueror's old hunting ground, home to wild ponies and deer, is ideal for walking, biking and riding.
4 Corfe Castle Picturesque ruins with a weathered, romantic charm.
5 Durdle Door This crumbling natural arch stands at the end of a splendid beach – a great place for walkers and swimmers alike and easily reached from Lulworth.
6 Avebury This crude stone circle has a more powerful appeal than nearby Stonehenge, not least for its great size and easy accessibility, in a peaceful village setting.