Guatemala Guide
The western highlands
Guatemala's western highlands, stretching from the outskirts of Antigua to the Mexican border, are perhaps the most beautiful and captivating part of the entire country. Two main features delineate the area: a chain of awesome volcanoes that lines its southern side, and the high Cuchumatanes mountain range that dominates the north of the region. Strung between these two natural barriers is a series of spectacular forested ridges, lakes, gushing streams and plunging, verdant valleys.
The western highlands are the heartland of the Maya, who have lived here continuously for the past two thousand years, and whose society, languages and traditions remain largely unchanged. You're spoilt for choice as you travel around the western highlands, with beautiful highland scenery yielding atmospheric villages of cobbled lanes and whitewashed colonial churches at every turn. Travelling west from Guatemala City, the Carretera Interamericana sweeps through a densely populated region around the scruffy town of Chimaltenango before climbing steadily into the highlands. Just north of the highway in the department of El Quiché is the renowned market town of Chichicastenango and the ruins of Utatlán. South of here, Lago de Atitlánis the jewel of the western highlands, ringed by volcanoes and some of the country's most fascinating villages – it's reached via the colourful town of Sololá. To the north are the wildly beautiful peaks of the Cuchumatanes, beneath which nestle the remote and intensely traditional communities of the Ixil Triangle. Heading on to the west is Guatemala's second city, Quetzaltenango (Xela), an ideal base for visiting local villages or climbing the nearly perfectly proportioned volcanic cone of Santa María.
Highlights
1 Chichicastenango Hunt fortextiles and souvenirs at this scenic town's legendary market.
2 The Ixil Triangle Hike the hillside trails of this remote, intensely traditional indigenous region.
3 Lago de Atitlán An awesome steep-sided crater lake ringed by volcanoes and diminutive indigenous villages, with a plethora of great places to chill.
4 Santa Cruz La Laguna Idyllic lakeside village with a uniquely relaxed vibe and plenty of spa treatments and yoga.
5 Quetzaltenango Guatemala's refined second city enjoys a great highland setting and makes an excellent base for studying Spanish.
6 Fuentes Georginas The perfect place to kill an afternoon, these sublime hot spring– fed pools are situated halfway up a volcano.
7 San Francisco el Alto Its weekly market is a maelstrom of highland humanity, animals, fruit and vegetables.
8 Todos Santos Cuchumatán A sleepy Mam Maya village nestled in a high valley in the mighty Cuchumatanes mountain range, with a famous textile tradition.
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