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Thailand Guide

The northeast: Isaan

    Bordered by Laos and Cambodia on three sides, the tableland of northeast Thailand – known as Isaan, after the Hindu god of death and the northeast – comprises a third of the country's land area but is its least-visited region, and its poorest. Its prime destinations are the ruins of the magnificent eleventh-century Khmer stone temple complexes, especially at Phimai and Phanom Rung, constructed as prototypes for Cambodia's Angkorian sanctuaries. The upland trails and waterfalls of Khao Yai National Park are an additional highlight, as is the chance to boat down the mighty Mekong River. Several local festivals also draw massive crowds, especially Surin's elephant round-up.

    At Chiang Khan, the Mekong River begins its leisurely course around Isaan with a sprinkling of attractive guest houses. Marking the eastern end of this upper stretch, the border town of Nong Khai gives access to one of the most outlandish temples in Thailand, Wat Sala Kaeo Kou. The most important religious site in the northeast, however, is at That Phanom, way downstream .

    The other big draw for travellers are Isaan's border crossings into Laos, the most popular of which is at Nong Khai, with easy road access to Vientiane; the others are Nakhon Phanom, Mukdahan and Chong Mek. It's also possible to travel overland between Isaan and Cambodia via the Thai town of Kap Choeng, in Surin province, to O'Smach (for Anlong Veng and Siem Reap); and via Sa Ngam in Si Saket province to Choam in Anlong Veng.

    Highlights

    1 Khao Yai National Park Tough and easy trails, lots of birds, several waterfalls and night safaris.

    2 Khmer ruins Exquisite Angkor Wat-style temples at Phimai and Phanom Rung.

    3 Silk A northeastern speciality, available all over the region but particularly in Surin.

    4 The Mekong The best stretch in Thailand for gentle exploration of the mighty riverscape starts at Chiang Khan.

    5 Wat Phu Tok Extraordinary meditation temple on a steep sandstone outcrop.

    6 That Phanom Isaan's most fascinating holy site, especially during the February pilgrimage.

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