Thailand Guide
The north
Chiang Rai
Sprawled untidily over the south bank of the Kok River CHIANG RAI is establishing itself as an upmarket tourist centre. The long arm of the package-tour industry has reached this northern outpost, bringing snap-happy bus-bound daytrippers, and at night the neon lights flash on and souvenir shops and ersatz Western restaurants are thronged. For independent travellers, however, Chiang Rai offers several genuine sights of interest, a good choice of guest houses and upmarket riverside hotels, and a wide choice of trekking, day-trips and other outdoor activities in the surrounding countryside.
Meanwhile, the town keeps up its reputation as a dirty-weekend destination for Thais, a game given away by just a few motels and carports – where you drive into the garage and pay for a discreet screen to be pulled across behind you.
Trekking from Chiang Rai
Communities from all the hill tribes have settled around Chiang Rai, and the region offers the full range of terrain for trekking, from reasonably gentle walking trails near the Kok River to tough mountain slopes further north towards the Burmese border; elephant-riding is included in most treks. However, this natural suitability has attracted too many tour and trekking agencies, and many of the hill-tribe villages, especially between Chiang Rai and Mae Salong, have become weary of the constant to-ing and fro-ing; the south side of the river to the west of town is generally a better bet. Sizes of group treks from Chiang Rai tend to be smaller than those from Chiang Mai, often with just two or three people, with a maximum of about seven in a group. Nearly all guest houses in Chiang Rai can fit you up with a trek – Chat House, Chian House and Mae Hong Son Guest House are responsible and reliable, typically charging B2500–3500/person for three days and two nights in a group of between two and six people. More expensive treks are offered by several non-profit foundations promoting community-based tourism, notably Natural Focus, Hilltribe Tour and Hilltribe Museum Treks. One place to avoid is the Union of Hilltribe Villages, just north of Chiang Rai's airport, where people from various ethnic groups, including "long-neck" women , are brought to live together in an artificial village for the convenience of tourists.
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