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Thailand Guide

The north

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    There's no mistaking when you've reached the north of Thailand: the train slows almost to a halt, as if approaching a frontier post, to meet the abruptly rising mountains that continue largely unbroken to the borders of Burma and Laos. Beyond this point the climate becomes more temperate, nurturing the fertile land which gave the old kingdom of the north the name of Lanna, "the land of a million rice fields". On the back of its agricultural prosperity, it developed its own styles of art and architecture, which can still be seen in its flourishing temples and distinctive handicraft traditions, and a cuisine which has been heavily influenced by Burma.

    Chiang Mai, the capital of the north, is a great place just to hang out or to prepare for a journey into the hills. For many travellers, this means joining a trek to visit one or more of the hill tribes, who comprise one-tenth of the north's population. For those with qualms about the exploitative element of this ethnological tourism, there are plenty of alternatives. To the west, the trip to Mae Hong Son takes you through the most stunning mountain scenery in the region, with the option of looping back through Pai, a laid-back hill station for travellers. Bidding to rival Chiang Mai as a base for exploring the countryside is Chiang Rai to the north, while the towns of Lamphun, Lampang, Nan and Phrae are packed with artistic and historical goodies. Fancifully dubbed the "Golden Triangle", where Laos, Burma and Thailand meet, Sop Ruak is a must on every bus party's itinerary but barely worth the effort. Chiang Khong, however, on the Mekong River, is an important crossing point to Houayxai in Laos, from where boats make the two-day trip down the Mekong to Louang Phabang.

    Highlights

    1 Hill-tribe trekking A chance to visit these fascinating peoples and explore the dramatic countryside.

    2 Chiang Mai Old-town temples, cookery courses, the best of Thai crafts, fine restaurants – still a great place to hang out.

    3 Wat Phra That Doi Suthep Towering views from this stunning example of temple architecture.

    4 Nan An underrated all-rounder, offering beautiful temple murals, handicrafts and landscapes.

    5 Whitewater-rafting on the Pai River Well-organized excitement taking in rapids, gorges and beautiful waterfalls.