Thailand Guide
The central plains
North and west of Bangkok, the vast, well-watered central plains have for centuries grown the bulk of the nation's food and been a tantalizing temptation for neighbouring power-mongers. The most densely populated part of Thailand, with sizeable towns sprinkled among patchworks of paddy, orchards and sugar-cane fields, it's a region full of elegantly crumbling ancient cities, dramatic waterfalls and some unexpectedly rewarding trekking. Train connections are good, making it an obvious place to linger en route to the northern city of Chiang Mai, and buses and bicycles are widely available to fill in the gaps.
Sited at the confluence of the Kwai Yai and Kwai Noi rivers, the town of Kanchanaburi has long attracted visitors to the notorious Bridge over the River Kwai and is now well established as a travellers' hangout, mainly because of its unique raft-house accommodation and the chance to ride the remaining stretch of the so-called Death Railway, built by POWs in World War 2.
On the plains north of Bangkok, in the historic heartland of the country, the major sites are Thailand's ruined former capitals, which cover the spectrum of the nation's art and architecture. Ayutthaya served as the Thai capital for the four hundred years prior to the 1782 foundation of Bangkok, and its ruins evoke an era of courtly sophistication. The remnants of Lopburi hark back to an earlier time, when the predominantly Hindu Khmers held sway over this region, building a constellation of stone temples across central and northeastern Thailand; these days, the town is almost as famous for its huge population of urban monkeys.
A separate nucleus of sites in the northern neck of the plains centres on Sukhothai, birthplace of the Thai kingdom in the thirteenth century, and its two two satellite cities at Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng Phet. West of Sukhothai, on the Burmese border, the town of Mae Sot makes a refreshing change from ancient history and is the departure point for the rivers and waterfalls of Umphang, a remote border region that's becoming increasingly popular for trekking and rafting.
Highlights
1 Kanchanaburi and the River Kwai Stay in a raft house, take a scenic train ride along the Death Railway and visit some moving World War II memorials.
2 Ayutthaya Atmospheric ruined temples, three fine museums and laid-back guest houses in the broad, grassy spaces of the former capital.
3 Wat Phra Phutthabat A vibrant introduction to Thai religion at the Temple of the Buddha's Footprint.
4 Phitsanulok Folklore Museum A fascinating look at traditional rural life.
5 Sukhothai The nation's first capital is packed with elegant thirteenth-century ruins and many inviting guest houses.
6 Mae Sot An alluring mix of cultures adds spice to this small town on the Burmese border.
7 Trekking from Umphang A remote border region with spectacular waterfalls, river-rafting and Karen villages.