Thailand Guide
Southern Thailand: the Gulf coast
Ko Pha Ngan
In recent years, backpackers have tended to move over to Ko Samui's fun-loving little sibling, KO PHA NGAN, 20km to the north, but the island still has a relatively simple atmosphere, mostly because the lousy road system is an impediment to the developers. With a dense jungle covering its inland mountains and rugged granite outcrops along the coast, Pha Ngan lacks the huge, gently sweeping beaches for which Samui is famous, but it does have plenty of coral to explore and some beautiful, sheltered bays.
On the long neck of land at the southeast corner, Hat Rin, a pilgrimage site for ravers, is a thoroughly commercialized backpackers' resort in a gorgeous setting; Thong Nai Pan at the top of the east coast is more remote, but still offers a decent range of amenities and accommodation. Much of Pha Ngan's development has plonked itself on the south and west sides along the only coastal roads on the island, which fan out from Thong Sala, the capital; the unattractive south coast is hard to recommend, but the west coast offers several handsome sandy bays with great sunset views, notably Hat Yao and Hat Salad.
Pha Ngan's bungalows all have running water and electricity (on the remotest beaches, only in the evenings and from individual generators), and nearly all come with en-suite bathrooms. In slack periods you'll be offered discounts (possible, roughly, in May, June, Oct & Nov), and at the very busiest times (especially Dec & Jan) Pha Ngan's bungalow owners are canny enough to raise the stakes.
Nightlife is concentrated at Hat Rin, climaxing every month in a wild full moon party on the beach; a couple of smaller outdoor parties have now got in on the act, the Half Moon Festival (twice monthly, about a week before and after the full moon; www.halfmoonfestival.com) and the monthly Black Moon Party (www.fullmoon.phangan.info), both at Ban Tai.
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