South Korea Guide
Jeolla
If you're after top-notch food, craggy coastlines, swathes of undulating green fields, and islands on which no foreigner has ever set foot, go no further. Jeju Island has its rock formations and palm trees, and Gangwon-do pulls in nature-lovers by the truckload, but it's the Jeolla provinces where you'll find the essence of Korea at its most potent – a somewhat ironic contention since the Jeollanese have long played the role of the renegade. Here, the national inferiority complex that many foreigners diagnose in the Korean psyche is compounded by a regional one: this is the most set-about part of a much set-about country.
A look at any map of the country will tell you what makes Jeolla special. The Korean coast dissolves into thousands of islands, the majority of which lie sprinkled like confetti in Jeollanese waters. Some such as Hongdo and Geomundo are popular holiday resorts, while others lie in wave-smashed obscurity, their inhabitants hauling their living from the sea and preserving a lifestyle little changed in decades. The few foreign visitors who make it this far find that the best way to enjoy the area is to pick a ferry at random, and simply go with the flow. Many of the islands lie under the protective umbrella of Dadohae Haesang, a marine national park. In addition to this, there are no fewer than five national parks on the mainland: Wolchulsan and Jirisan lie in South Jeolla province (Jeollanam-do), while Byeonsanbando, Naejangsan and Deogyusan are in the north (Jeollabuk-do).
Jeolla isn't all about natural delights. Pleasures of an urban bent can be found in Gwangju and Jeonju, the two regional capitals. Both capitals are young, trendy cities with a reputation for art and political activism, and also the best places to sample the Jeollanese cuisine that's the envy of the nation – pride of place on the regional menu goes to Jeonju bibimbap, a local take on one of Korea's favourite dishes.
Highlights
1 Mokpo This characterful seaside city is the best jumping-off point for excursions to the emerald isles of the West Sea.
2 Hyangiram A tiny hermitage hanging onto cliffs south of Yeosu, and the best place in the country in which to see in the New Year.
3 Jeonju's hanok district There are all sorts of traditional sights and activites to pursue in this wonderful area of hanok housing.
4 Naejangsan The circular mountain ridge within this national park looks stunning in autumn, and is the best place in the land to enjoy the season.
5 Byeonsanbando Look out across the sea from the peaks of this peninsular national park, then descend to the coast at low tide to see some terrific cliff formations.